Nissan ELGRAND who has one?

[dvldoc]

* locoroco777
Good info I need a few parts myself, Only got one wiper arm and want a spare elgrand drivetrain for my owners jeep race project got to do something to keep me busy.

Here's some good info if you ever want to service your intake fuel pump assembly.

[dvldoc]

Good to see plenty Elgrands survived the Earthquake in Japan, Hopefully some of the newer models will start showing up in the Philippines. Still the best van hands down available there.

[dvldoc]

Having a problem starting your Elgrand, have to whiggle the shifter or move it this could be your issue.



OK,the neutral saftey switch is part of the inhibitor switch located on the side of the transmission.Here is some info.IT will also tell you how to adjust it after you put the new on on.Hope this helps!
NEUTRAL SAFETY/INHIBITOR SWITCH
L4N71B and E4N71B Models

See Figures 5 and 6
The switch unit is bolted to the the transmission case, behind the transmission shift lever. The switch prevents the engine from being started in any gear position except P or N. It also controls the back-up lights.

1. Place the transmission selector lever in the N position.
2. Remove the screw from the switch.

Fig. 5: Remove the screw before switch adjustment-L4N71B and E4N71B
Fig. 6: Insert the pin to adjust the switch-L4N71B and E4N71B

1. Loosen the attaching bolts. With a 2.0mm aligning pin, move the switch until the pin engages the hole in the rotor.
2. Tighten the attaching bolts equally.
3. Make sure while holding the brakes on, that the engine will start only in P or N. Check that the back-up lights go on only in R.

RL4R01A and RE4R01A Models
See Figures 7 and 8
The switch unit is bolted to the the transmission case, behind the transmission shift lever. The switch prevents the engine from being started in any transmission position except P or N. It also controls the back-up lights.

1. Disconnect the shift linkage at the switch assembly

Fig. 7: Remove the shift control linkage-RL4R01A and RE4R01A
Fig. 8: Insert the pin through the two adjustment holes-RL4R01A and RE4R01A

1. Place the transmission selector lever in the N position.
2. Loosen the switch mounting bolts.
3. Insert a 4.0mm aligning pin into the adjusting holes in both the switch and the manual shaft so that it is as vertical as possible.
4. Tighten the mounting bolts equally, connect the shift linkage and remove the pin.
5. Make sure while holding the brakes on, that the engine will start only in P or N. Check that the back-up lights go on only in R.

[dvldoc]

Good pdf on our transmission.
http://www.ukrtrans.biz/files/catalo...%20RE5R01A.pdf

Layed out

[red elgrand]

I agree to dvldoc, most likely your fuel filter nearly clogged which causing fuel starvation and second the maf sensor.

[dvldoc]

Good thing the Elgrand can take a hit, If you have not checked the vans have full front and rear bumper supports unlike many vehicles sold there. The back bumper has a solid piece of steel all the way across and the corners of the bumpers are also well supported.

60klm per hour crash vs car. Car was totaled.




Elgrands rate very high in crash test, One of the reasons I got one. If that was a Delica or Hi-ace you would be crushed by a hit like that.

[Ericgt]

Hi DVLDOC,

What's the freon gas of the 2000 elgrand neo di 3.0? I want to have the aircon cleaned. thanks!

[dvldoc]

R-34 is what it uses.

[krmoto]

Hi dvldoc, l have just bought a neo elgrand 60,000kms but l dont think it's power is right, l have read this very useful thread inside out and have just fitted a boost gauge to see if everything is good but on road test it runs at -10 to -20 until you lift off the gas then it will go to around zero and then l can hear some turbo whistle, my boost pipe arrangement is different to photo's on this thread, the pipe comes off the turbo servo to an electrical gadget by the airbox then to a can type thing on the engine then to some more electrical gadgets on the cyl head then to the servo's on the throttle body, do you know why my turbo pressure is low, any thoughts would be much appreciated.

[dvldoc]

Congratulations on your purchase, I love my Elgrand it might be 11 years old but man what a vehicle.

So you went with a neo, here's a few things. ZD30s boost at around 4psi at 100klm cruise speed, when you get into the throttle should jump up to around 10 to 12psi if your half throttle and if you put the hammer down you should be at around 16psi stock.

Number one your overboosting your hitting 20psi on a stock Neodiesel, It's one of a few things.

One. Blocked EGR valve

Bad MAF sensor

or Both


First thing you need to do is inspect your MAF sensor located in your air box assembly make sure it is clean of soot and oil residue.

Second you need to get the EGR system checked to see if it's blocked, It's most likely in this case, they get blocked very easy if you do not install a oil catch can on these engines. I would have the whole intake cleaned.

The biggest thing you can do to protect a ZD30 engine is get a manual boost controller, this will keep you from blowing a head gasket and fragging your turbo. These engines are famous for this, like Micheal Jackson Famous for this problem.

Take it easy and keep the boost under 16psi until you get these problems fixed, The reason for the damage it can cause is the high exhaust gas temps which will blow your head gasket or fry the turbo.

Get the boost controller first to keep the motor safe as the older ZD30's are basically ticking time bombs, the first clue is being low on power, that's the high exhaust gas temp and almost certainly a fouled MAF sensor.

When you get the manual boost controller, Oil catch can and do the EGR delete the ZD30 is actually a very good engine, but without these mods they can coast you 10000's of Pesos in repairs.

Also add 2T oil to your fuel, the injector pumps on these are not serviceable at most shops there so repair or replacement is going to be in the 100,000P range. You want it well lubricated with a little 2T oil in every tank full. The injection pump on these is what keeped me from getting one and sticking with the QD32ETI which uses the common Zextel Covac style pump.

Let us know what you find. If your not mechanically inclined I would take it to Bermmia diesel they are pretty familiar with the issues on these Elgrands. Speedlab i know has the manual boost controllers but you should be able to find it at almost any high performance shop like them or Autoplus.

Make sure you look over this as well.

http://users.on.net/~aschulze/ZD30/Z...t%20-%20BW.pdf

But you[SIZE=4] absolutely[/SIZE] have to get the manual boost controller to keep the engine from overboosting and blowing itself, A bad MAF sensor can send you up past 25psi in some cases and in the heat there the motor is as good as dead.


Feel free to ask any other questions.

Are you talking about this valve? on page 11?

http://tsikot.com/forums/nissan-cars...3/index11.html


Or the butterfly valve assembly pictured here.
http://www.navara.asia/new-members-a...-conector.html

and here. http://www.clubfrontier.org/forums/f...ara-d22-25453/

[dvldoc]

Very good guide to install a manual boost controller on the ZD30 engine.

Manual Boost Controller

You only need a basic boost controller and not the in car needle valve. But this gives you a ideal of how to install one as these are different due to the VGT turbos. Elgrands should not be any different.

[krmoto]

Yes this is my setup, my boost gauge was showing me negative pressure-10 to -20 psi but since my first post l have made some progress, l had the boost gauge T pickup on the pipe with the green and white damper filter which is vacuum to turbo so l ended up drilling a hole in the rubber intake hose to the throttle body and using that as my pressure pickup point, then l gave it a road test and yes we were over boosting at up to 20+psi so then l fitted a new MAF sensor and now my neo pulls like a train with about 5-6 psi and hitting about 15 psi max, today l will fit the EGR plate and catch tank to keep my new MAF clean and see what that does to my boost and performance, there is info on NISSAN PATROL ZD30 about adjusting the VNT on the turbo when EGR plate fitted. will keep you all posted.
By the way, l live in the UK

That hose is connected to the Varible nozzle turbocharger control solenoid valve. That little white piece that looks like a filter is the Damper. So yes you need to connected some where on the air flow. The Patrols looks a bit different but does the same thing.

Your MAF adpater looks more than long enough to add a barb to slide the hose on. The rubber coupler you use only needs about 2.5" of space to be secured. You will just need to get a longer hose to change it with.

[krmoto]

Just fitted EGR block off plate and done a short road test, under hard acceleration boost is now 9 psi, engine feels strong but will give it a good test when l get a boost controller sorted and eventually EGR, do all boost controllers just allow air into the vacuum pipe and do l fit my boost controller on the pipe fitted to the turbo servo?.

Many thanks for your help.

[krmoto]

sorry l mean EGT (eventually)

[dvldoc]

Good to see your a fellow modder like me, Absolutely get a EGT gauge for the Neodiesel, I see about 480C/900F at full throttle, with the water injection and LPG fumigation kit going at the same time. When I get back next year I will be increasing the water injection nozzle size for even more power after I get my downpipe and exhaust done up.

Here is another little performance secrete for these vehicles. You see the photo of the air intake, That little tube going to the silencer, (thow it in the trash ) Here is what you do, replace it with a motorcycle air filter and you will get way better air flow and really here your turbo.



If you want even better airflow get a MAF sensor adaptor made up and put on a cone style filter. But I found this little mod does very well and is very noticeable. That silencer really kills airflow.

[krmoto]

I tried to fit the EGT today and decided to put it directly after the turbo and soon discovered (after drilling a 3mm hole) ZD30's have a cat right after the turbo, can l continue and fit the probe in the cat or plug it and go before the turbo?, thanks for the air flow tips, l will be on to that when l get this EGT and boost controller sorted.
Also l did fit my EGR plate at the inlet manifold (after the EGR valve), is this ok?.

[krmoto]

Have now fitted the probe in the exhaust manifold just after the front cylinder port (easy to get at) and will give me a reading off a cylinder that can run weak/hot, will see how it goes.

[dvldoc]

Remember 1250F / 680C is the danger zone, especially for the ZD30 motor. They are best keeped under 1100F / 590C.

[krmoto]

Remember 1250F / 680C is the danger zone, especially for the ZD30 motor. They are best keeped under 1100F / 590C.

Ok thanks, I have been looking at Devilsown UK but not sure which is the best kit and nozle size for my ZD30, l see kits that do each port and kits that do the main intake tube, please can you advise based on what you have found out so far.

[dvldoc]

DVC-30 kit with the 3gph nozzle, or you can get the stage 1 kit which is cheaper. I would ask to replace the second nozzle which is a 7gph one with a 4gph nozzle, If you decide you want a bit more power throw in the 4gph nozzle and you can take your boost up to 20psi with that one.