Rajasthan
The 28-room, $70-a-night Garden Hotel in Udaipur -- one of Rajasthan's most breathtaking cities -- is definitely not one of the luxurious palace hotels that make the state of Rajasthan the most popular draw for tourists to India. Although the Garden Hotel is clean, comfortable and quiet, it pales in comparison to its opulent neighbor a short drive away, the Lake Palace, the ancestral home of the Maharana of Udaipur, where rooms go for $525 to $2,200 (and they don't even throw in breakfast).
But the current Maharana (that's a ruler's title similar to Maharaja), whose family lost political power a half-century ago, is proving a shrewd businessman. He runs an empire of eight luxury hotels, and in October he added the downscale Garden Hotel as his ninth property, renovated from former workers' housing. Although it opened too recently to be in any guidebook, it's already completely full during the current peak season. "It's very difficult to get a room in Udaipur at this price," says manager Ranjeet Singh.
From Udaipur's stunning waterside vistas to Jaipur's colorful chaos, there are plenty of tourists keen to make the trek to Rajasthan. But -- except for the very rich who stay in the palaces and the backpackers who patronize little guesthouses -- there's no place to put them. "We've tripled the number of visitors in three years to 1.2 million in 2005," says Vinod Zutschi, Rajasthan's secretary of tourism. "But our future growth rate may be decided by the number of rooms we can offer." There are now 5,000 rooms in classified hotels, those good enough to be given at least a one-star rating by the government. "We have an immediate need of 10,000 more and further growth requires an additional 10,000 in the next three years," he says.
The hotel crunch might prove India's most insurmountable problem in upgrading its infrastructure to accommodate the new waves of tourists. Agricultural and forested land is strictly protected, while in cities, a single resident of an apartment building can hold up demolition for many years by challenging the eviction notice in court. The problem has already hit the wallets of travelers: Several hotels I called for bookings had doubled the rates quoted in the September 2005 edition of the Lonely Planet guide to India.
PLUS: Jaipur, the capital of Rajasthan, providing a colorful Old City and a good base for travel around the state.
MINUS: Two million people means ugly urban sprawl detracting from the historic areas.
HOTEL: Devi Gahr, Village Delwara, Tehsil Nathdwara, Rajsamand. Tel: 91-29-5328-9211. Rates from $150. An impeccably restored former palace outside Udaipur.
RESTAURANT: Niros, Mirza Ismail Road, Jaipur. Tel: 91-141-237-4493. Upscale Rajasthani cuisine.
Kolkata
With offices in three Indian cities plus New York, London and Chicago, D.K. Chaudhuri, head of the computer software company Skytech Pvt. Ltd., didn't have to choose Kolkata as his corporate headquarters. After all, Kolkata -- which used to be known as Calcutta -- is best known for Mother Teresa and abject poverty, and it's governed by an avowedly Marxist party that runs the state of West Bengal (where the city is located).
So why Kolkata? "(It) was a terrible place for so many years," says Mr. Chaudhuri. "But from 2002 everything started to change. Whatever it is, the government is as practical as hell. It's the most proactive government I've ever seen. They behave like capitalists, no matter what the rhetoric."
The remarkable transformation of Kolkata is one of the great success stories of India. It could well start drawing adventurous tourists who want to witness most dramatically the contrasts between the old India and the new -- as well as take advantage of the country's most vibrant cultural life, where literature, dance, modern art and music all thrive. Downtown, the buildings are grimy, the air is seriously polluted by the ancient buses and taxis, and the dust-covered sidewalks serve as sleeping quarters for thousands of homeless. A half-hour's drive away, in the spotlessly clean Salt Lake district, it's another world. Gleaming, modern buildings, reached by broad, tree-lined boulevards, house hundreds of IT companies.
"We are always ready to welcome foreign and domestic companies with a red carpet," says Nirupam Sen, minister of commerce and industries in West Bengal. "In Kolkata, we're building the infrastructure with growth in mind. We actually export power."
PLUS: An opportunity to see the old India (from Raj-era buildings and jostling crowds to outdoor markets) and the new India (gleaming high-tech zones).
MINUS: Appalling air pollution.
HOTEL: Park Hotel, 17 Park St. Tel: 91-33-2249-9000. Rates from $200. Modern and stylish.
RESTAURANT: Aaheli, in the Peerless Inn, 12 Chowringhee Rd. Tel: 91-33-2228-0301. Great Bengali food, with freshwater fish the highlight.
Note: Hotel rates listed are for the current peak season, which ends March 31. From April to June (hot weather) and July to September (monsoon period), specials can cut the rate by as much as half.
Write to Stan Sesser at
stan.sesser*awsj.com
Will wonders never cease with Motolite? Ha ha.
Cheaper brands than Motolite but reliable as well