Ayaw pumasok ng primera at ng segunda...

**karlo4real** · July 20th, 2009 04:00 PM

Guys napansin ko pag umaandar na ako, ayaw na pumasok ng primera yung kambyo ko kailangan mabagal ang andar ko mga 10-20kph at tsaka full stop para maipasok ko ng swabe sa primera minsan kasi pinupwersa ko pumasok.. halimbawa mga 50-60kph takbo ko hindi ko maipasok agad ng primera minsan kahit segunda pero kung mabagal na, na papasok ko nmn ng maayos, 2008 ung car ko.

anu kaya yun safety features ba yun para hindi mag sudden surge? kaya dapat at a certain speed ka pwede mag baba ng gear?

**blacksun25** · July 20th, 2009 06:29 PM

di talaga papasok sa primera yung kambyo mo kung nasa 50 to 60 kph takbo mo. i suggest you read your car's manual for instructions on shifting gears. may mga recommended speeds kasi yan for up-shifting and down-shifting. hth.

**Sarsi** · July 20th, 2009 06:49 PM

wala ako masabi

**karlo4real** · July 20th, 2009 06:57 PM

okay po.. grabe napasama ata yung pag pwersa ko na ipasok hehe... kaya pala nung pinadrive ko sa papa ko wala nmn daw problema.. medyo baguhan pa kasi ako sa manual... hehehe...

**Taurus** · July 20th, 2009 07:04 PM

Upshifting
When accelerating in any forward gear other than top gear, shift up when the engine is turning at too high a speed for the current gear. The engine speed that constitutes "too high" varies from vehicle to vehicle and according to the driver's taste, but the absolute upper limit is usually marked on most vehicles equipped with a tachometer as a red area called the redline. Running the engine past this speed can cause damage to internal components of the engine (and most modern cars with electronic engine control computers will not permit the engine to be run past the redline). In practice, one usually shifts up well before the engine speed reaches redline. The vehicle's owner's manual should contain a table of recommended upshift speeds, but as a general rule of thumb, consider shifting between 2000 and 3000 rpm - although in some small engines that make power higher in the rev band shifting around 3500rpm can drop you to a better part of the power band in the next gear. This can be quite different for different cars, as a rule of thumb its a good idea to shift up around 500rpm above the revs the engine does in top gear at 100kph[citation needed] (Note that in a diesel you will usually have to shift at a lower rpm, and the redline is likely to be lower.)
For maximum acceleration, one may shift just before reaching the redline, but for ordinary driving, to conserve fuel, one should shift between a little above the engine's maximum torque speed and the lowest engine speed possible without "lugging" the engine. With practice, you will be able to tell when to do this by the sound of the engine.
To upshift:

Release the accelerator pedal. Alternatively, if you are experienced enough to shift quickly, you may be able to partially release and then reapply the accelerator pedal at the same time as declutching and shifting.
Press and hold the clutch pedal with your left foot.
Reapply throttle to a level appropriate for the higher gear. If you are experienced enough to shift quickly and smoothly, you may be able to partially release the accelerator pedal while shifting, and the engine will roughly synchronise. Alternatively if you shift quickly enough, reapply the throttle after reengaging the clutch.
Move the gear shift knob, depending on the gear that is currently selected:
- To shift from an odd-numbered gear (i.e. 1st or 3rd) into the next highest gear, move the shift knob down, through neutral, to the corresponding position on the bottom row.
- To shift from an even-numbered gear (i.e. 2nd or 4th) into the next highest gear, move the shift knob up to neutral, one column to the right, then up to the new position on the top row.
Smoothly release the clutch pedal, allowing the new, lower engine speed to match up with the vehicle's speed.

If you take longer than a second or so to upshift, the engine will probably have slowed down too much for the new gear, and the car will probably jerk backward a bit unless you increase throttle to compensate. Don't increase the throttle too much though, or the engine will be going too fast for the new gear and the car will jerk forward. Once your skill at "matching revs" improves you can release the clutch pedal more quickly without any jerkiness.
Downshifting
When decelerating in any gear above second gear, shift down when the engine is turning at too low a speed for the current gear. The speed that constitutes "too low" varies among vehicles, and you can afford to keep it in a higher gear if little acceleration is needed, but as a rule of thumb, consider downshifting when the engine reaches 1500 RPM. With some practice, you will be able to hear the engine speed and make this judgement.
Although rapid acceleration is never really necessary, it often saves time, can sometimes help to merge into moving traffic and is enjoyable to some people. For rapid acceleration or to climb a steep grade, while the car is already moving in a higher gear, one downshifts, to increase the engine's revs to a point at which it can produce more power. (Beginners may prefer to stop and shift into first before climbing a hill.)
If you notice the RPM decreasing steadily to a low value while climbing a steep hill, despite having a firm foot on the throttle, you should immediately switch to a lower gear or the car may conk-out and roll backwards.

It is important not to shift into too low a gear for the car's speed. Downshifting increases the speed of the engine. If one shifts into a very low gear (e.g. second gear) at a very high speed (say, highway speeds) it is possible for the car's engine to be driven beyond the redline, conceivably causing severe damage to the engine. (In this case, even the engine control computer's rev-limiting function cannot help, as the engine is being driven by the momentum of the car). It is always safe to downshift to the next lower gear when the engine is turning at too low a speed for the current gear. If you "miss" a downshift and hear the engine revving too fast as you let out the clutch, immediately push the clutch back in and shift into a higher gear.
Due to the larger differences in gear ratio between first and second gear, it's usually best not to downshift into first gear unless you plan to be driving very slowly for some time. Instead, stay in second gear and disengage the clutch when you're about to come to a stop. In some special cases (very steep slopes, crawling traffic) first gear can be useful, however. In some vehicles, it is easier to shift into first gear from a stop than to downshift from second.
To downshift:

Release the accelerator pedal, unless you are skilled enough to only partially reduce the throttle.
Press and hold the clutch pedal with your left foot.
Reapply throttle to a level appropriate for the current speed of travel in the lower gear. This is (somewhat) optional, since gradually releasing the clutch will adjust for a slight mismatch, however if you completely release the accelerator while at the same time shifting too slowly you are likely to have the car jerk somewhat.
Move the gear shift knob, depending on the gear that is currently selected:
- To shift from an even-numbered gear (i.e. 2nd or 4th) into the next lowest gear, move the shift knob up, through neutral, to the corresponding position on the top row.
- To shift from an odd-numbered gear (i.e. 3rd or 5th) into the next lowest gear, move the shift knob down to neutral, one column to the left, then down to the new position on the bottom row.
Gradually release the clutch pedal, allowing the new, higher engine speed to match up with the vehicle's speed.
Adjust the throttle as necessary to decrease, maintain, or increase vehicle speed.

If you don't match the engine's speed properly for the lower gear, the car will probably jerk a bit. Once your skill at "matching revs" improves you can release the clutch pedal more quickly without any jerkiness.
Putting it All Together
In actual driving, the individually learned skills of modulating engine torque with the clutch and shifting gears are performed together. Decisions are made on-the-fly and sometimes they have to be canceled or pre-empted as predictions about traffic dynamics turn out to be incorrect. It takes several months of practice before the skills are nearly internalized, and anywhere up to a year of daily driving to become a completely smooth, confident, manual transmission driver who ensures that the machine is always in the correct state in every situation. These are a few tips beyond starting, stopping and shifting:

:2thumbsup:

**1D4LV** · July 20th, 2009 07:07 PM

sisirain mo transmission mo nyan bro....

**Taurus** · July 20th, 2009 07:10 PM

More . . .

Sharp Turns
Situation: The driver wishes to turn at an upcoming corner. Coming to a full stop is not required.
Corners are taken at a fairly slow speed, which corresponds to the typical car's second gear: some 30 km/h or even slower. This means that accelerating out of the corner will require the transmission to be in second gear.
The steps are:

The driver applies pressure to the brake pedal to slow the vehicle down, leaving the transmission in whatever gear it is in.
Moments before approaching the corner, the car should be travelling at a speed in which second gear may be selected. The driver presses the clutch all the way to the floor and shifts into second gear.
The clutch is released to complete the shift just before the steering is turned to execute the turn.
Through the turn, the transmission remains in second gear.
Coming out the turn, the driver begins to accelerate and straighten the steering.
By the time the driver shifts to third gear, the car is travelling straight.

By avoiding a transmission shift in the turn itself, the driver can steer with both hands. In some countries or states—such as British Columbia, Canada—if a new driver takes a licensing road test in a manual transmission, points are deducted for shifting in a turn, because there are safety issues with doing so.
Slow-Moving Traffic
Situation: the driver finds himself or herself in a heavily congested flow of traffic. Sometimes the cars ahead come to a full stop. In between stops they sometimes crawl at approximately a walking pace, and at other times speed up substantially only to rapidly slow down again.
In this situation, stressful for a new manual transmission driver, it is important that the driver remain calm and focused. The driver must remember that to prevent the engine from stalling at any time, all that is required is to depress the clutch pedal all the way down.
The trick is to keep moving smoothly while maintaining a generous gap to the next car, and stop and resume if necessary. It should all be done without slipping the clutch.
The driver should monitor the traffic as far ahead as visibility allows, to anticipate whether a complete stop is about to become necessary.
The driver should keep the transmission in second gear if possible and apply a light pressure to the accelerator pedal so that the vehicle slowly crawls forward. In first and second gear, particularly in first, the car is capable of moving very slowly without the engine stalling, or the necessity to slip the clutch. The manual transmission driver must learn to recognize situations in which it's useful to crawl slowly, and take advantage of the transmissions and engine's ability to do so.
But if an impending full stop is anticipated, the clutch is pressed all the way to the floor, and the other foot begins to brake. One of two events then happen:

The car ahead in fact comes to a complete stop. After that, of course, the transmission must be put in first gear and an ordinary start must be performed, albeit this is probably very gentle start, since the car isn't about to accelerate anywhere fast! It's useful to practice slow starts in a parking lot, which is another situation in which they are useful. The goal is to quickly get the car rolling in first gear and let the clutch out all the way, but then remain at the low speed. This requires gentle throttle work to only maintain the RPMs a bit above idle during clutch engagement. As the clutch grabs, pressure on the accelerator stays light: it is not increased as would be the case if the intent were to accelerate.

The car ahead does not come to a complete stop, but instead speeds up. Now, a decision must be made whether to release the clutch, stay in second gear, or to downshift to first gear. This depends entirely on the vehicle's speed and how much torque its engine has at very low RPMs. In time, experience with that particular vehicle will furnish the driver with the requisite intuition. (If the speed is very slow, less than about 5 mph or 8 km/h, it's possible to downshift to first gear in just about any car, even ones which can handle moving at these slow speeds in second gear). If downshifting to first gear is necessary, it is done without bringing the car to a complete stop. Releasing the clutch in this situation is different from releasing the clutch in first gear during a start from a complete stop. The clutch can be released much faster in first gear if the car is slowly rolling forward at about walking speed.

After downshifting to first gear, if that was necessary, the car can stay in that gear, with the clutch fully engaged. Very slow crawling can be achieved in first gear. Once the crawling is fast enough to take the engine RPM's into the 1500-2000 range, second gear should be selected once again. Again, anticipation of traffic ahead is very useful. If cars are stopping ahead, creating a backward-propagating wave of stoppage, there is no point in switching to a higher gear. It's better to just continue to crawl in first, and then disengage the clutch and apply pressure to the brake when the stop comes. Better yet, if possible, the driver can allow the engine braking effect in first gear to create a larger gap to the next car, and use the space, together with the slow crawling capabilities of first gear, to avoid stopping entirely.
With practice, these shifts between first and second gear in heavy traffic become second nature, as will the traffic monitoring and anticipation which eliminates unnecessary stopping, shifting and clutch work.
The Canceled Stop
Situation: the driver is approaching an intersection where traffic is stopped at a red light. He or she is following the manual transmission technique for coasting to a stop. However, just as the approach is nearly complete, the light changes and it's not necessary to come to a full stop. The stop manoeuver is preempted, and a dynamic decision must be made about how to proceed. The key input to this decision is the vehicle speed, which determines what gear the vehicle should be in.

If the vehicle almost came to a stop, and is rolling forward only very slowly less than 5 mph or 8 km/h, the driver may shift into first gear. At this speed, the driver should already have pressed the clutch all the way to the floor, in preparation for coming to a full stop. Because the car is rolling, the clutch can be released quite rapidly. (But if first gear is inappropriately selected at too high a speed, and the clutch is released rapidly, there will be a jerk!)

If the speed is above approximately 5 mph or 8 km/h, but below around 20 mph or 30-35 km/h, the driver should select second gear, release the clutch fairly quickly and proceed.

If the traffic change occurs above these speeds, resuming is possible in third gear. In fact, it's possible that the transmission is still in third gear and the clutch hasn't even been pressed down. In other words, it may be possible to just step on the accelerator and resume.

The tricky cases are the near-stops when the car is still rolling. The driver must select the correct gear based on speed, and be confident that a quick clutch release can be executed without stalling or jerking. The speedometer is of little use at these slow speeds. The driver, in fact, must not be staring at the speedometer and trying to reason about the correct gear. Rather, intuition for this must be learned through practice.

:police: