ignition coil

**isa1023** · April 21st, 2011 12:59 AM

Originally Posted by devond

paano naman po kung delayed response? kunwari po biglang tapak sa gas tapos mga 2-3seconds po bago magresponse ang makina, ano po kaya problen sa ganon?

Madaming factors yan pap, pero kung gusto mo mag-zero in sa may kinalaman sa ignition, malaman yan sa tension wires.

Nagkaganyan na din kasi auto ko dati yung pala yung isang plug wire nakadikit na sa headers.

**genobreaker47** · April 23rd, 2011 12:19 AM

Originally Posted by devond

paano naman po kung delayed response? kunwari po biglang tapak sa gas tapos mga 2-3seconds po bago magresponse ang makina, ano po kaya problen sa ganon?

timing siguro.

**isa1023** · April 23rd, 2011 12:20 AM

Retarded timing

**genobreaker47** · April 23rd, 2011 12:21 AM

Originally Posted by azzkkr2600

most prob ignition coil po. try to touch it. dapat mahahawakan mo ng hindi ka mapapaso agad.

eh pag umusok kung natalsikan ng patak-patak na tubig? does the coil need replacement?

**jick.cejoco** · April 23rd, 2011 07:16 AM

check using the radio frequency interference method mentioned in the earlier post or check using visible corona effect. this is done at night when it is dark, the high voltage leak will glow in the dark and gets brighter when you spray water to the suspect high voltage component of the ignition system

**genobreaker47** · April 24th, 2011 10:28 PM

Originally Posted by jick.cejoco

check using the radio frequency interference method mentioned in the earlier post or check using visible corona effect. this is done at night when it is dark, the high voltage leak will glow in the dark and gets brighter when you spray water to the suspect high voltage component of the ignition system

i use the a.m band wala naman ako naririnig na interference. ill try the water spray, di ba delikado yun?

**jick.cejoco** · April 25th, 2011 07:53 PM

Originally Posted by genobreaker47

i use the a.m band wala naman ako naririnig na interference. ill try the water spray, di ba delikado yun?

the water spray is used sparingly and is not dangerous to yourself or the car as long as you dry it up when done with the test. the water only enhances or highlights the high voltage leak by glowing even brighter than just the dry corona effect. if your ignition is shielded by the sparkplug tube and you have coil on plug (COP) ignition system, there are no spark plug wires and the interference heard if any comes from the ignition coils unless the ignition coils are shielded too, then you will not hear the radio frequency interference.

can you possibly identify your engine type and family and the ignition system type? i think we have been playing pin the tail on the donkey. if you could elaborate or tell us more telltale signs or symptoms that would greatly help reduce guesswork

**dr. d** · April 26th, 2011 10:19 PM

the surest way to determine if it is the ignition coil, is to replace it with a good unit. intermittents are difficult to diagnose... opening at certain temperatures, closing at other temperatures.. and when you think you got it, they change temperature opens and closes..

**genobreaker47** · April 28th, 2011 01:31 AM

Originally Posted by jick.cejoco

the water spray is used sparingly and is not dangerous to yourself or the car as long as you dry it up when done with the test. the water only enhances or highlights the high voltage leak by glowing even brighter than just the dry corona effect. if your ignition is shielded by the sparkplug tube and you have coil on plug (COP) ignition system, there are no spark plug wires and the interference heard if any comes from the ignition coils unless the ignition coils are shielded too, then you will not hear the radio frequency interference.

can you possibly identify your engine type and family and the ignition system type? i think we have been playing pin the tail on the donkey. if you could elaborate or tell us more telltale signs or symptoms that would greatly help reduce guesswork

sorry about that, its an fx with a 7k-carb engine. usual symptom niya cold start's not a problem, but after a "hard driving" for 30minutes to an hour or so and i turn off the engine to fill up at a gas station or park for a while eh ayaw na magstart, no sounds, no clicks, just nothing. but suddenly it'll start after 10-20 seconds. but when the engine has cooled down, no issues na.

additional info:

- what i meant by "hard driving" is having the vehicle loaded with passengers, a/c on and shifting at 2.5-3.5k rpm

- problem's not isolated whether its day or night, basta medyo babad sa pedal i expect it na though its not consistent. happens about 3/10 occasions. there's also this popping sound when the engine does start. exactly like putting a "watusi" inside an empty can, just one "pop" though.

- its different from a worn-out battery issue because pag discharged ang battery and i start the engine, i hear a "click" sound and matched with dimming of LED dome lights. the battery is less than a year old.

- ignition coil has been replaced about 5-6 yeas ago. tune up last january and i always have the engine bay checked before starting the engine or immediately after.

**dr. d** · April 28th, 2011 07:42 PM

[QUOTE=genobreaker47;1732087]sorry about that, its an fx with a 7k-carb engine. usual symptom niya cold start's not a problem, but after a "hard driving" for 30minutes to an hour or so and i turn off the engine to fill up at a gas station or park for a while eh ayaw na magstart, no sounds, no clicks, just nothing. but suddenly it'll start after 10-20 seconds. but when the engine has cooled down, no issues na.

wala man lang ikot ng flywheel? sounds like your problem is electrical. i'd check the ignition switch. not the part where you insert the key, but the switch at the end of the key cylinder, where electrical wires attach. sometimes the switch is replaceable, sometimes you may have to replace the entire switch assembly. another item to check is the starter solenoid. maybe it needs replacement. it's easy to check, if one knows how. check also all electrical connections.. baka loose connection.
the high tension circuit (ignition coil, distributor, high tension cables and spark plugs) and the starter circuit (starter solenoid and starter) are two different things. problems in the hi tension circuit usually do not affect the starter circuit. that means, the engine will still revolve but it will not catch life. problems in the starter circuit will usually be bypassed by push-starting the vehicle.
but if the problem is the ignition switch: 1. either the idiot lights will not light up at the second click, and the starter solenoid will not activate (no solenoid click); OR 2. idiot lights light up at the second click, but starter solenoid does not click.... some cars have another solenoid that activates the starter solenoid (may be factory spec or may be aftermarket modification).... heck! it's easier to do than to describe..
good luck.