Nissan ELGRAND who has one?

**dvldoc** · January 19th, 2011 08:35 PM

You have been screwed for sure on that Elgrand. By the way the T and the I in your vehicle code stand for turbochared intercooled. I bet u have a nissan 3.0 DI engine siting under your hood. At least in OZ you can take legal action sice the vehicle is not as it should be plus your missing around 70hp with that none turbo charged engine. I suspect your original motor went bad due to over boost like so many ZD30 engines before it and they replaced it with something local that would fit.

**dontknow??** · January 19th, 2011 09:37 PM

thanks for the info & it has made a lot of sense since I couldn't find the right pump to start with. Yes legal action is what will be on the Ozzy BBQ menu - one car dealer medium rear!! Well love your work dvldoc keep it up...

from dontknow?? to nowIknow!! & never again

**ajsurla** · January 22nd, 2011 11:27 PM

good day to all!

just recently purchased an elgrand (3.2 liter 1997 model) from a reseller in bataan -- i already had it detailed in and out and is smelling really clean now, can i just ask the elgrand experts on some items:

1. where are the pollen filters (if these are present in the model i have) and can i just clean these or totally remove them?

2. i also had a changed oil earlier today and used a vic226 oil filter plus 7 liters of oil -- the mechanic was telling me that 7 liters seem not enough as the dip stick indicator is still on the minimum level only -- did i put in enough oil?

3. i plan to change my other fluids next week (transmission fluid; power steering fluid; brake fluid and even coolant) -- any suggestion on brand of fluids and may i also ask the correct amount of fluids i should put in my elgrand.

4. my rear washer is not working; is this a complicated process for an electrician to do as i saw a plug in the engine (near the washer reservoir) that does not have anything plugged in it.

5. when i changed my oil filter -- it was difficult to remove the filter and the mechanic had to unscrew the converted steering rack or bar (am not sure what it is called) to allow the removal of the filter which was dented by the steering rack -- is this safe as the new filer was also dented intentionally or steering will be problematic and noisy.

6, just one last point please, when i turn the key in the ignition just right before before the engine cranks (when all dashboard signals are turned on), i am able to hear something on the right side possibly behind the glove compartment a sound similar to a disk changer being turned om when it tries to check the loaded disks -- would you have any idea what this sound is?

sorry for the long post but this has been the most informative thread i have read in the net so far (with special thanks to the invaluable inputs of dvldoc who got a truly great ride).

may i also say that my elgrand has a turbo timer installed but either not working or properly installed after the conversion -- and also some other non-standard switches that are there but doesn't seem to work including a long catv-looking cable that runs to the back from the behind the glove compartment.

maraming salamat po

-- AJ

**dvldoc** · January 23rd, 2011 03:03 AM

My stock filter was also dented but removal was easy from under the vehicle. I replaced my with a Cummins Fleet Guard filter. You need 7.5L to 8L with filter for the oil change so you a bit low.

I get that buzzing noise to I think it's the glow plug relay. As far as the pollen filters if your is like all the conversions I have seen they have been removed and the box sealed with epoxy.

Start using the 2T engine oil on every fill up, makes a world of difference in the engines smoothness. I just put in a full small bottle, my engine use to shake like crazy at idle when I first got it now it's smooth as can be for a diesel. And use to have a pretty harsh shutter at shut off all now which has gone away almost totally.

**ajsurla** · January 23rd, 2011 09:42 PM

thank you for the inputs dvldoc, will surely try the 2T on my next fill. is 1 liter 2T oil enough for a full tank? or should i start with less?

Originally Posted by dvldoc

My stock filter was also dented but removal was easy from under the vehicle. I replaced my with a Cummins Fleet Guard filter. You need 7.5L to 8L with filter for the oil change so you a bit low.

I get that buzzing noise to I think it's the glow plug relay. As far as the pollen filters if your is like all the conversions I have seen they have been removed and the box sealed with epoxy.

Start using the 2T engine oil on every fill up, makes a world of difference in the engines smoothness. I just put in a full small bottle, my engine use to shake like crazy at idle when I first got it now it's smooth as can be for a diesel. And use to have a pretty harsh shutter at shut off all now which has gone away almost totally.

**dvldoc** · January 24th, 2011 02:22 PM

You only need about 10oz per tank. so 1/3 liters.

**crazy_boy** · January 25th, 2011 11:54 AM

Originally Posted by dvldoc

You only need about 10oz per tank. so 1/3 liters.

or 200:1 ratio.

dvldoc, question regarding water injection, will it solve my grey/light black smoke when i accelerate hard?

**dvldoc** · January 26th, 2011 09:03 AM

Originally Posted by crazy_boy

or 200:1 ratio.

dvldoc, question regarding water injection, will it solve my grey/light black smoke when i accelerate hard?

Yes it will because it will clean out all the carbon and soot build up in your engine. Of the Elgrands I have seen on the road all of them seem to smoke under even light acceleration. I can go full throttle on mine and it does not smoke my emissions test I got a 0.25 which is about as good as you can get.

The other things you can do is the air intake mod, the Elgrands do over fuel abit. When you do the intake mod it makes it run leaner and cleaner. Not to mention it's much more responsive due to quicker boosting. The oil catch can is also a must if you want to keep things clean.

Adding a boost gauge is not a bad ideal either so you can make sure your engine is performing like it should. Stock boost should be around 8psi to 9psi. I run 15psi on mine, but a stock set up you can run 10psi no problem, exhaust gas temps still stay in the safe zone.

I like to keep a eye on things. Boost gauge and Exhaust gas temp gauge are direct measurements of your engines health and performance. High exhaust gas temps can kill the turbo or engine.

My set up. There is also a nice spot to the left of the steering wheel were you can mount a gauge using a hole saw. I put in a volt meter because most factory battery warning lights don't come on until it's too late and your battery is dead and your stranded. Saw my volts go to 8 and I knew the battery was about to give out. Sure enough next day it would not start. Get rid of that Japan none climatized battery as soon as you get the chance.

My exhaust gas temps never go above 1000F post turbo even at 15psi of boost so I can still go up on my boost safely. And she boost instantly as you can see from the video just playing around at partial throttle on Clark.

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H-dC57Do38o"]YouTube - DSCN1110[/ame]

**dvldoc** · January 26th, 2011 12:29 PM

Sorry had trouble with the upload.
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1c0E2qRUd4Y"]YouTube - DSCN1110[/ame]

**dvldoc** · January 26th, 2011 04:51 PM

Looks like the ZD30 motor is not really a common rail in the elgrands it just has a much higher pressure radial injection pump so 2T is fine to use in it.

Makes a world of difference on the QD32 that's for sure.

Here is a study done in the US on diesel fuel additives 2T oil comes in very high in the ranking.

http://rivrdog.typepad.com/files/cop...-version-3.pdf