Results 31 to 40 of 46
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May 8th, 2012 09:29 AM #31
with the project being described, the doubts were on the quality, time, and the cost. one aspect that was not discussed was flexibility for expansion or modification. with that in mind, steel framing and hardiflex construction is still the fastest, less cost, more flexible, earthquake resistant, fire safe and readily expandable not to mention easy to maintain if the members were bolted or screwed together. the flooring for the second to the rest upper floors can be made of ribspan with hardiflex floor substrate covered in carpet, vinyl tile, ceramic tile or hardwood floor planks. there is no need to worry about termites. no need for forms for poured in concrete aside from the foundation. less plaster finishing and readily paintable once the walls are installed. floor joists can be made of engineered trusses for longer spans, straightness and ease of joining using nuts and bolts or welding. there are no more readily available lumber due to deforestration. the only materials you can use are composites and metal. construction method somehow changed by the inavailability of the traditional building materials.
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May 8th, 2012 09:40 AM #32
3 floors yan.. para makakuha nang building permit kailangan nang soil testing.. titingnan kung kakayanin nang soil yung 3 floors.. masakit din sa ulo yan pag walang contractor... i suggest kuha ka nang contractor.. para may warranty din..
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May 8th, 2012 10:03 AM #33
yes that is a requirement, the soil density, type of soil, vulnerability to soil erosion, flooding, grade, and elevation need to be evaluated first. but the public works or whatever agency might not even do the job right
. consider the illumination, ventilation, orientation (where the house is facing- east, west, north or south). look into distances of power, water and sewer connections. in other words, make the house plan as green as possible reducing the need for light and airflow
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May 8th, 2012 11:39 AM #34
Yep, soil testing muna before anything else. Ang mahirap diyan yung city eng. Office. Hihingi ng lagay yan. Then kailangan ng plano, kailangan may license yung gagawa ng blue print.
Para sakin, get an eng. Para everything would be done the right way. No offense sa tito mo na contratista, pero oo lang ng oo yan basta parang matibay para sakanila. Tanchahan lang sila.
IMO, never go cheap on building a house, if hindi kaya ng budget, ill be more confident on fully renovating the house.
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May 8th, 2012 11:49 AM #35
Yup, lahat naman kailangan ng lagay para bumilis. Especially if something connected with permits or whatever.
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May 8th, 2012 02:08 PM #36dito sa Japan ang mga bahay at low rise buildings (2 storey) ay pre-fab.
minsan nagulat ako may building na agad dun sa kalsadang dinadaanan ko. kasi parang pundasyon lang yung nakikita kong ginagawa nila tapos ilang linggo lang 2-storey bldg na. matapos ang malakas na lindol noong 2011, nakatayo pa naman yung building at brand new looking pa din.
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Tsikoteer
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May 8th, 2012 02:56 PM #37
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May 8th, 2012 03:34 PM #38
hardiflex has a low limit on elasticity. if you use ordinary wire nails, you have to pre drill the holes. in my case, i have been using "tek" screw or self drilling/self tapping screw since i use galvanized steel for framing, not wood. the screw heads can be made flush with the surface by countersinking the hole for the screw. then, the scars left behind by the screw can be covered by caulking or spackle prior to painting.
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May 8th, 2012 06:50 PM #40
the hardiflex comes in different thicknesses up to 16 mm. if the wall is expected to have some accidental impacts, the framing has to be spaced like what yo do for plywood-stud at every 16 inches on center and use two fireblocks between two studs. in my past experience using hardiflex of 1/4 inch thick and 2"X4"X3/16" rectangular galvanized tubes, it stood to the 200 miles per hour sustained wind and surges but did not suffer damage. i guess it all depends how you build it. if you were to use it as floor, use a ribbed steel backing panel supported by steel joists
Last edited by jick.cejoco; May 8th, 2012 at 06:59 PM.
I'm going with Amaron when it's time to change. Motolite (which is more expensive than Amaron), has...
Cheaper brands than Motolite but reliable as well