Mazda B-Series (B2200/B2500)

**life2enjoi** · April 20th, 2011 02:22 PM

sir kaya ko ba gawin mag isa ang pag crank ng torsion bar? san pwede magpagawa at mura?

at meron bang torsion bar ang 4x2 ng b2500? nde ba coil spring mga sir??
thanks

**youngrider** · April 20th, 2011 02:29 PM

Sharing with you some info about Mazda RF Turbo Engine which a common replacement for Mazda R2 2.2 diesel engine:

Max HP - 76 * 4000 RPM (70 HP for R2, Mazda R2 engine in ambulances
having silver colored alloy cover has 78 HP * 4250 RPM)
Torque - 17.5 * 2000 RPM ( vs 14.5 for R2 Mazda)
Engine Oil - 7 liters
Cooling - 9 liters
Timing Belt - 162 teeth
Fuel economy - 5.3 L/100km * 60 km/hr in Mazda Bongo 3-row van.
EGR - Equipped, vacuum controlled (just bust or pull out the vacuum line to
disable)
Transmission - Auto and Manual are fully compatible with R2 with same
bolt size and pattern, just add pilot bearing if the engine you are
buying has auto transmission.

Engine mount: Same with Mazda R2.

Possible Modifications/Cautions to make:

1. Air intake is smaller, only about 1 3/4 inch in diameter and is mounted lower than R2.

2. Exhaust tube/mounting modifications, be sure that the engine have a short piece of exhaust pipe attached to exhaust manifold for reference.

3. Shifting rod modifications (some bending for Kia Besta due to physical interference with the turbo unit).

4. Be sure that the engine has a working idle-up vacuum diaphgram for AC,
it is mounted differently.

5. If your are buying with transmission attached, note your oringinal mounting/hanger for reference be sure to have the same.

6. The turbo is water-cooled be sure that some important tubes are not
missing.

7. Use the same temperature sender from your original engine attached it to thermostat housing. RF turbo has three temperature senders especially those which came from sedans and wagons.

8. Be sure to replace your water pump and timing belt before you mount the engine or it can be a disaster, don't listen to your mechanic if he is opposed to it. Timing belt is only around P1,200.00, same with the water pump.

9. Be sure to enable the full-flow and by-pass oil filters.

10. Be sure that all accessories are attached, AC compressor, power steering pump, alternator, cooling fan etc. The cooling fan will be mounted
slightly to the right and lower than R2, keep your old fan intact.

11. Look inside the valve cover for oil sludge or heavy deposits swipe your finger around the inside.

Tips for buying a used engine:

1. No engine oil spitting from the dipstick some oil mist and small droplets from oil filler is ok.

2. See that the cooling pipes are clean with no scales, heavy deposits, charring, or carbon built-up.

3. No oil should spill from exaust not, no thick colored (white,blue,black)
smoke either that does not improve immediately.

4. Don't test the engine for too long or you can blow its head form overheating.

5. Turbo without intake tube/airfilters usually 'whistlles' when ran at higher RPM.

Using your RF Turbo:

1. Wait for 2 minutes from the time you started the engine before you run the vehicle so that the turbo will have good oil circulation before you load it up. Turbo spins much much faster than the engine, at the range of Xhundred RPM.

2. Wait for at least two minutes before killing the engine so that the oil will not be roasted in your turbo wreaking it prematurely. Install a turbo timer if you don't have it. Not installing a turbo timer is a big pain in the ass.

3. In the Philippine setting, I recommend using Mobil Delvac MX 15W-40 if you don't plan to use plan to use Fully synthetic engine oil. It has API CI, ACEA E7, Caterpillar ECF-2 ratings and has lower ash levels, compared to others and uses Group II base oil. Otherwise use Caltex Delo Gold multigrade. Shell Rimula X are for trucks, and has a high ash levels which can be detrimental for your turbo.

4. Use Rust Inhibitors +++ cooling system additive with distilled water or 50:50 percent ethylene glycol mix for the cooling system. Turbo engines run hotter but a good cooling system will take care of it. Have your old radiator thoroughly cleaned or overhauled before using a turbo.

An aircon auxillary fan is not really needed, it can even make the clean up of the radiator very difficult. I spray water to the radiator (not using power sprayer which can close the radiator fins) every 3 days.

5. Compared to Mazda R2 the RF turbo is easier to drive at low engine speed, you can feel the 'turbo kick' as you climb to 50 to 60 kph or when the engine is loaded. The turbo needs bigger amount of exhaust to give a significant boost. You won't feel the' kick' when the engine is not loaded or when testing it at the surplus store though you rev it high.

**youngrider** · April 20th, 2011 02:42 PM

Surplus MAZDA RF-TURBO Engines is priced around 30k to 32k. A surplus Mazda R2 engine cost 2k to 3k higher, bakit ganun, ganyan talaga siguro, law of supply and demand and perceived percentage of failures dahil siguro maraming pinoy ang di marunong mag-alaga ng old-style turbo engines.

Use 0.9 rated radiator cap, I used 1.4 dati may pumutok na hose.

**duskylim** · April 20th, 2011 06:38 PM

Hello and Greetings to Everyone:
especially Ronn - sipag mo pre!

Sorry for falling off the face of the earth - hindi ako maka-log in sa Tsikot!

Lets get down to business:

1) about the front suspension of the Mazda pickup - its definitely torsion bars with rear semi-elliptic (leaf) springs.

2) I would not install caliper clips separately for my brakes - everything must come from the same kit and fit correctly - sir buhay mo 'to!

3) In general I am not really a fan of gas engines - kasi mahal ang gas!

4) If I were to replace my engine it would definitely be the same or larger displacement (size) - that is, 2.5 liters or MORE!

Why?

Well I have found that a small engine does not really save you that much gas because when you need the power you have to step harder at suma total, ganun din ang consumo mo.

Furthermore, when I replace my engine it will definitely be a turbo-diesel model - the reasons are in my past posts.

5) Ronn is RIGHT - fix the suspension, brakes and drivetrain (engine & transmission) 1st, then worry about how it looks 2nd!

If you have the body work done 1st, and the suspension and drivetrain later, it is inevitable that your beautiful body and paintwork will get scratched, stained and chipped - di ba?

Sa madaling salita, kondition (diet at exercise) muna bago makeup.

6) Info on my new project, (after water-meth injection, additive development and HIDs) its a diesel-LPG setup - yes kids! - I am installing an LPG injection system that will work in parallel with my standard diesel.

By the end of May, I will have several weeks of testing finished and you can see the final result.

Keep on trucking!

Best Regards,

Dusky Lim

P.S. Mini-EB at the end of April?

**azzkkr2600** · April 21st, 2011 12:52 AM

Originally Posted by life2enjoi

sir kaya ko ba gawin mag isa ang pag crank ng torsion bar? san pwede magpagawa at mura?

at meron bang torsion bar ang 4x2 ng b2500? nde ba coil spring mga sir??
thanks

madali po if you are mechanically inclined. recommended po kay sir mon sa 199offroadhouse. balut, tondo.

lahat po ng b-series ay naka torsion bar. not sure sa US version B3000 & B4000.

san nyo po pala ib-byahe this weekend? be sure to check / double check before leaving; minsan pag hindi sanay ang auto sa long drives e prone to overheat dahil sa dumi na nagccirculate sa radiator. palitan na ng distilled water at coolant.. dalhin ang tools at spare tire. =)

**azzkkr2600** · April 21st, 2011 12:59 AM

*youngrider: sir thank your for sharing your thoughts about the RF NA & turbo engines! very informative!

are you a mazda trucker too? EB na!

**azzkkr2600** · April 21st, 2011 01:03 AM

*bborces: sir kumusta na mazda truck mo? nakabit na ba intercooler sa RF turbo?

**youngrider** · April 21st, 2011 08:16 AM

I forgot to mention that when you are buying Mazda R2 or Mazda RF Turbo engine with transmission included, be sure that the transmission includes a portion of the propeller shaft.

Otherwise you will not be able to attach the replacement Transmission to your Differential because the splines of your old propeller shaft do not match or fit.

Take note also that if your old engine was busted because of overheating, your temperature sender may not be accurate anymore. You can buy a new sender if you can find one or buy a replacement set (sender and gauge should match, a common brand is CIRCUIT, P250 for sender P450 for the gauge + P30 for the hanger or frame ) or use the mechanical type, but this requires some machining for a clean install.

**binder_clips** · April 21st, 2011 12:33 PM

guys

the MMDA posted the oix of OverSpeeding Violators along commonwealth.

check out their site:

http://www.mmda.gov.ph/Overspeeding-Violators.html

Speed Limit is 60kph

wala naman ako nakita na mazda ..

keep on truckin'