Foton Toplander

**Fotonista** · October 24th, 2016 08:08 AM

Originally Posted by StockEngine

I forgot to factor in our heavy almost non moving traffic. The traffic in au is very light compared to our extremely high density traffic.

Which city are you from? Also what is the average speed on your vehicle?

Sitting in traffic really increases fuel consumption...

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tsikot Forums mobile app

I'm from Marikina and work at McKinley Hill. I work Graveyard shift so usually I don't experience traffic on my way to work and going home, I sometimes experience it. I understand that traffic consumes a lot, but based on my old pickup which has an old 2.8L 4JB1 engine, my fuel consumption is around 9.5KM/L same driving condition (Been driving it for 5 years). I never was heavy on the pedal, I seldom hit 100KM when the road is clear (Usually its 80KM) and I shift before I hit 2K RPM. This one is really exaggerated, my 70L only lasted me for about 420KM on the trip odometer.

**Fotonista** · October 24th, 2016 08:57 AM

Another thing that I noticed is that every time I hit the pedal to accelerate, whether its a very light tap, the IFC meter (Instant Fuel Consumption) goes crazy-high to about a range of 22-34L/100KM. I don't think that is normal which is why I wanted to have a second opinion outside the casa and have them measure my STFT and LTFT (Short Term and Long Term Fuel Trims).

**StockEngine** · October 24th, 2016 02:56 PM

70l and 420km lng.

Thats defective bro. Start complaining. Hope the lemon law helps if they cant fix it.

**Fotonista** · October 25th, 2016 12:20 PM

Originally Posted by StockEngine

70l and 420km lng.

Thats defective bro. Start complaining. Hope the lemon law helps if they cant fix it.

Meron na palang "Lemon Law" dito sa atin, thanks for the info sir StockEngine!

**StockEngine** · October 28th, 2016 06:26 PM

Originally Posted by Fotonista

I'm from Marikina and work at McKinley Hill. I work Graveyard shift so usually I don't experience traffic on my way to work and going home, I sometimes experience it. I understand that traffic consumes a lot, but based on my old pickup which has an old 2.8L 4JB1 engine, my fuel consumption is around 9.5KM/L same driving condition (Been driving it for 5 years). I never was heavy on the pedal, I seldom hit 100KM when the road is clear (Usually its 80KM) and I shift before I hit 2K RPM. This one is really exaggerated, my 70L only lasted me for about 420KM on the trip odometer.

If grave yard shift, dapat at least 8-10kml. Almost same area ako and traffic isnt bad when going to mercury or vivians tapsi.

Mux or new fort or montero would easily do 12kml in your scenario...

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tsikot Forums mobile app

**Fotonista** · October 31st, 2016 01:48 PM

Quick updates guys. I was at the casa last Saturday and sad to say, its so hard to talk to someone who doesn't seem to know what the problem is and resort to telling you to just observe your car as they wait for an update from the plant. To make you feel more irritated, they will tell you that its an isolated case and that they never had any complaints similar to what I have. It just sounded that I was making stories or trying to come up with something that is out of the norm despite all the actual findings that I gave them in which they have insisted on getting before so that they'll have an answer to my question.

So after 4 hours of waiting for nothing, I went home with my issues not being addressed. Being frustrated, I resorted to the ever reliable google and researched for two and a half hours. Since I don't have the tools to check my ECU/ECM readings, I ended up doing my own fix plus tons of information that I got from google (the DIY-mechanic kicked in me and hoped for the best)... I hope it will help others who have problems with their fuel consumption on a fairly new car, FOTON or different manufacturer (Again, please take a measurable amount of precaution before doing this, I am not liable in way if something happens to your car). :D :D :D

Here are the steps that I made and will put a comment as to why I did it:
I first removed the negative connector of my battery and leave it disconnected for 30 minutes. I got this idea from an article that says removing the negative from your battery resets the Fuel Trim settings from your ECU/ECM. The STFT (Short Term Fuel Trim) and the LTFT (Long Term Fuel Trim) are set back to zero when this happens. STFT and LTFT readings are basis of the ECU on how much fuel it will feed the injector based on what the MAF data it feeds. It will dictate whether you have a lean or rich air reading then compensate on how much fuel it needs to get your engine to as close as 14.7:1 A/F ratio. During the time that the negative terminal was removed, I pressed on the brake pedal for about 10-15 seconds, I did this to ensure that there are no more electric charge within the lines (I also got this from an article). After the 30-35 minutes of no negative connection, I put back the terminal. Just ensure that you have turned off everything (cabin lights, radio, AC fan, etc.) so that there will be no other load other than the engine the moment you turn it on.

Without stepping on any pedal (clutch, brake, gas) E-brake engaged (for safety) I started the engine and leave it on idle for another 30 seconds. During this time, ensure that all other device are still OFF (AC Fan, Radio, cabin lights, etc) and YOU SHOULD NOT step on the gas pedal. During this time, the ECU/ECM is trying to analyze your environment, the MAF Data, etc. It is on a learning mode and records it to its memory so it is crucial that nothing is being fed to its memory so it will not be included in the relearning process. You might wonder as to why should you let it idle for 30 minutes? Computers nowadays are built smart, in 10 minutes they can learn and record data already? From the article that I've read, different engines have different characteristics, and it will take 10-30 minutes for an engine to reach it's optimum operating temperature. The ECU/ECM has to have data collected from different temperature settings in order to get an optimal result. During those period I had enough time to do a quick spray waxing of the entire SUV. After waxing (about 32 minutes), I turned of the engine. Gave it a good 2 minute rest then drove it normally (as to how I will drive it on a daily basis). No flooring on the pedal, no sudden acceleration, shift gears before I reach 2K RPM. The drive was about 10KM (as instructed on another article), objective is to feed different environment data and driving conditions to the ECU/ECM and manage it based on the initial 30 minute idle data that it had.

I don't know if it just a placebo effect and do take note that I am not patronizing myself, but I notice a significant change in the data that I got during that 10KM drive. Initial change that I got was the IFC reading (Instant Fuel Consumption). Before the reset, I always set my dashboard to IFC so I'll have an idea as to how much fuel the injector is spraying while I am driving. I always get a reading around 13.5-16.5 L/100KM even if I am just stepping on my gas pedal lightly (I don't know if I am explaining it correctly but it is about 2cm pressed), if I let go of the pedal the IFC reading is still showing numbers as if the injector is still spraying diesel to my engine which I think is not normal. But after the reset, the IFC reading is now changing constantly and in-sync as to how heavy or how light my foot is pressing the pedal. The significant change on it is that it now goes down to about 4.5-7 L/100KM which I never saw during the entire 1600KM trip that I had since day 1. To satisfy my probable-placebo effect, I went on a semi-long distance trip to Dasmarinas cavite that night and indeed, there was a huge difference on the way the IFC data is showing especially when I am doing a cruise drive at around 80KMH (when you drive and go over 80KMH, you remove your foot on the pedal to slow down) the IFC goes to zero saying that there are little to no fuel being fed on the engine during that time.

After my trip to Cavite and went back home, I checked the AFC (Average Fuel Consumption) reading on my dashboard and surprisingly, it went down to 12.3 L/100KM. Before, I am always at the 15.5-16 L/100KM reading. I also noticed that from a full tank, I consumed more than 1/4 of my gas tank with only 100KM trip (this was before I left for Cavite), after the Cavite trip I already totaled 259KM and I am still in between the 1/2 and 5/8 line of my fuel gauge (Meaning the 150KM trip consumed only about 3/16 of my tank). I know it still not accurate until I gas up another full tank so I will do an observation and update this thread, but for now I am a bit happy of the initial results and HOPING that it is not a placebo effect. I will keep you guys posted and hopefully, it can help someone who has a similar problem like mine.

**StockEngine** · October 31st, 2016 03:58 PM

Originally Posted by Fotonista

Quick updates guys. I was at the casa last Saturday and sad to say, its so hard to talk to someone who doesn't seem to know what the problem is and resort to telling you to just observe your car as they wait for an update from the plant. To make you feel more irritated, they will tell you that its an isolated case and that they never had any complaints similar to what I have. It just sounded that I was making stories or trying to come up with something that is out of the norm despite all the actual findings that I gave them in which they have insisted on getting before so that they'll have an answer to my question.

So after 4 hours of waiting for nothing, I went home with my issues not being addressed. Being frustrated, I resorted to the ever reliable google and researched for two and a half hours. Since I don't have the tools to check my ECU/ECM readings, I ended up doing my own fix plus tons of information that I got from google (the DIY-mechanic kicked in me and hoped for the best)... I hope it will help others who have problems with their fuel consumption on a fairly new car, FOTON or different manufacturer (Again, please take a measurable amount of precaution before doing this, I am not liable in way if something happens to your car). :D :D :D

Here are the steps that I made and will put a comment as to why I did it:
I first removed the negative connector of my battery and leave it disconnected for 30 minutes. I got this idea from an article that says removing the negative from your battery resets the Fuel Trim settings from your ECU/ECM. The STFT (Short Term Fuel Trim) and the LTFT (Long Term Fuel Trim) are set back to zero when this happens. STFT and LTFT readings are basis of the ECU on how much fuel it will feed the injector based on what the MAF data it feeds. It will dictate whether you have a lean or rich air reading then compensate on how much fuel it needs to get your engine to as close as 14.7:1 A/F ratio. During the time that the negative terminal was removed, I pressed on the brake pedal for about 10-15 seconds, I did this to ensure that there are no more electric charge within the lines (I also got this from an article). After the 30-35 minutes of no negative connection, I put back the terminal. Just ensure that you have turned off everything (cabin lights, radio, AC fan, etc.) so that there will be no other load other than the engine the moment you turn it on.

Without stepping on any pedal (clutch, brake, gas) E-brake engaged (for safety) I started the engine and leave it on idle for another 30 seconds. During this time, ensure that all other device are still OFF (AC Fan, Radio, cabin lights, etc) and YOU SHOULD NOT step on the gas pedal. During this time, the ECU/ECM is trying to analyze your environment, the MAF Data, etc. It is on a learning mode and records it to its memory so it is crucial that nothing is being fed to its memory so it will not be included in the relearning process. You might wonder as to why should you let it idle for 30 minutes? Computers nowadays are built smart, in 10 minutes they can learn and record data already? From the article that I've read, different engines have different characteristics, and it will take 10-30 minutes for an engine to reach it's optimum operating temperature. The ECU/ECM has to have data collected from different temperature settings in order to get an optimal result. During those period I had enough time to do a quick spray waxing of the entire SUV. After waxing (about 32 minutes), I turned of the engine. Gave it a good 2 minute rest then drove it normally (as to how I will drive it on a daily basis). No flooring on the pedal, no sudden acceleration, shift gears before I reach 2K RPM. The drive was about 10KM (as instructed on another article), objective is to feed different environment data and driving conditions to the ECU/ECM and manage it based on the initial 30 minute idle data that it had.

I don't know if it just a placebo effect and do take note that I am not patronizing myself, but I notice a significant change in the data that I got during that 10KM drive. Initial change that I got was the IFC reading (Instant Fuel Consumption). Before the reset, I always set my dashboard to IFC so I'll have an idea as to how much fuel the injector is spraying while I am driving. I always get a reading around 13.5-16.5 L/100KM even if I am just stepping on my gas pedal lightly (I don't know if I am explaining it correctly but it is about 2cm pressed), if I let go of the pedal the IFC reading is still showing numbers as if the injector is still spraying diesel to my engine which I think is not normal. But after the reset, the IFC reading is now changing constantly and in-sync as to how heavy or how light my foot is pressing the pedal. The significant change on it is that it now goes down to about 4.5-7 L/100KM which I never saw during the entire 1600KM trip that I had since day 1. To satisfy my probable-placebo effect, I went on a semi-long distance trip to Dasmarinas cavite that night and indeed, there was a huge difference on the way the IFC data is showing especially when I am doing a cruise drive at around 80KMH (when you drive and go over 80KMH, you remove your foot on the pedal to slow down) the IFC goes to zero saying that there are little to no fuel being fed on the engine during that time.

After my trip to Cavite and went back home, I checked the AFC (Average Fuel Consumption) reading on my dashboard and surprisingly, it went down to 12.3 L/100KM. Before, I am always at the 15.5-16 L/100KM reading. I also noticed that from a full tank, I consumed more than 1/4 of my gas tank with only 100KM trip (this was before I left for Cavite), after the Cavite trip I already totaled 259KM and I am still in between the 1/2 and 5/8 line of my fuel gauge (Meaning the 150KM trip consumed only about 3/16 of my tank). I know it still not accurate until I gas up another full tank so I will do an observation and update this thread, but for now I am a bit happy of the initial results and HOPING that it is not a placebo effect. I will keep you guys posted and hopefully, it can help someone who has a similar problem like mine.

Sounds like the reset helped. Keep us updated. Reading your posts reminds me to always think beyond line...

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tsikot Forums mobile app

**boytsiks** · October 24th, 2016 03:03 PM

Maybe because it is still in break in period. My non Foton SUV started to have decent FC only after it hits 5k km mark and got better after 10k km.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

**n_spinner06** · October 24th, 2016 04:55 PM

70l yung tank sir di ba sagad? Baka may mali sa computation sir? Unless nung 420kms tuyo na tanke mo...assuming tama computation sobrang lakas nga sa gas. Kahit iassume na may reserve pa na 10l nung nagpagas ka at 420km, 7kmpl pa rin so malakas pa rin.

Sent from my LG-D855 using Tapatalk

**Fotonista** · October 25th, 2016 11:56 AM

Yun nga ang concern ko mga boss eh. I already raised the concern to them, kaso they keep on telling me to observe it, observe it, it will adjust, it will normalize... If only there is a shop that can verify that the specs of the ECU/ECM is correct, then I would probably have a peace of mind and follow their advise of observing.

Pero baka nga tama rin sila similar to what sir "boytsiks" mentioned na after his 5KM saka lang nagkaroon ng decent fuel consumption and nag normalize after 10KM, kaso parang medyo matagal for me to wait for it until maka 10K ako and i-consider na nila as error in my driving or worst sabihin sa akin "dapat nag reklamo po kayo nung bago pa lang yung sasakyan"....

Sir "boytsiks", ano po pala yung SUV nyo?