Chevrolet Trailblazer Maintenance...

**shadyanderson09** · June 12th, 2018 01:57 PM

Originally Posted by NewMD

I am new here. Compared to Montero and Fortuner, is the availabilty of parts and price OK for a second hand trailblazer 2013-2014ish? Thank you.

I had lots of Fortuners and Monteros, almost all generations. Price and availability and reliability is the same, I even favor the TB in lots of aspects compared to the other 2 brands, you will have to dive into the experience by yourself to judge mate.

**shadyanderson09** · June 27th, 2018 12:13 PM

For those who are interested to know.

Getting around 7L per 100KM, but when in the perfect mood I was able to get an astonishing 5.2L per 100KM, couldn't believe my eyes when I saw these figures. Odometer is very accurate, most accurate in it's class. I've filled up the tank, reset Trip Meter, made the trip then filled the tank again. From Makati to Batangas City using SLEX, back and forth. Met heavy traffic even until the second Toll as well as after SLEX to my destination, would say 20% moderate traffic and 10% bumper to bumper.

Since I'm hearing horror stories about the Fuel Consumption of this SUV, I can tell you clearly that either you were misinformed or something is wrong with your foot. I understand that not everyone is old enough and was able to drive older vehicles, but let me clue you in. This SUV is 100% tweaked towards off-roading, the heavier you push the longer it will hold the gear and give you nothing but Torque. It's a monster in this arena. You won't be able to truly launch this SUV unless you have a very sensitive driver's foot.

For me this is a perfect deal, hate cars/SUVs that would hunt for gears, got turned off test driving so many vehicles for that same specific reason. Also it's a tower, 3 Tonnes, so holding the gear longer like a boss is a plus, you don't wanna tow with a vehicle that would hunt for gears, trust me, worst experience ever.

4.5K Revs before red-line, most of the time I run 1.5K, hitting 2K barely when 7 seats occupied on heavy inclines, aka Baguio. Never needed to go beyond that, only for fun on SLEX.

Ease on the gas to accelerate properly and don't slam it, rather take it gradually, this is not a SUV that would correct your throttle input like others, if you know what I'm talking about.

Combined I get around 9L to 10L per 100KM, that's a one highway trip of 100Km and 500KM or more in the city, Makati/EDSA and the like with insane amount of traffic. A full tank, 76L, can do 600K or even more combined. The guys at the gasoline station wondered and asked me once, do I fill up in other stations? Since they see me full tank it only once a month.

As an Off-roader, this SUV will crunch through anything effortlessly.

I'm not an emblem fanboy, wouldn't bother if Toyota, Mitsubishi or any other is king, but so far this is the best SUV in it's class I have ever owned based on real experience.

It's also the biggest reason for Toyota and Mitsubishi upping up their games after killing us for a decade with the same SUV and charging like there is no tomorrow, competition is good and it's always for the consumer's benefits. If not the Trailblazer and Everest, I think the case with the big 2 was supposed to be a totally different story. Sequoia, 4Runner and Land Cruiser?

I knew since day one that Chevy won't make an imbecile game with this specific SUV and they were going down full force. Huge enhancements in 2017 was done for their critics, and they have listened, and who knows what else is lurking behind curves to perfect this SUV even more?

**Gumusut_Amige** · July 3rd, 2018 08:38 PM

just finished my 105K+ PMS. as usual, i brought all the parts except the oil because thunder had run out of stock.
with this visit, i'd included the change-out of my drive belt tensioner pulley which was left-out before.
also, i added the inspection of the front shocks mounting (an unusual noise was noticed this past 2 weeks). lo and behold, the lower mount bushing is gone, shock mount became slotted and the shocks center rod was badly worn out. i guess both the worn out shocks rod and the slotted mounting is the by-product when the rubber bushing is gone (rubbing each other without the "rubber insert"). had read somewhere that there's a recall for this, had discussed with my SA if my unit is included in the list of affected units (sadly my VIN was not included in their system list).
my next casa visit will be the change-out of the oil dip stick as advised by my SA (original dip stick is a bit "short" and stocks haven't arrive yet). note that only some TBZ model engine oil dip stick are affected with this recall, mine is included.
shocks assembly cost and labor cost: (total = 12,600.00)
> Front shock absorber - 4,500.00/set (only 3200 at thunder)
> Shock absorber mounting - 1,500.00/set (only 750 at thunder)
> Shock absorber bushing (upper/lower) - 300.00/set
> labor - FOC
i should have waited for the parts (if i'll order from thunder) but when i saw one of the shock absorber's center rod, i can't really gamble for my safety for a few thousand pesos.

**shadyanderson09** · July 4th, 2018 08:24 AM

Originally Posted by Gumusut_Amige

just finished my 105K+ PMS. as usual, i brought all the parts except the oil because thunder had run out of stock.
with this visit, i'd included the change-out of my drive belt tensioner pulley which was left-out before.
also, i added the inspection of the front shocks mounting (an unusual noise was noticed this past 2 weeks). lo and behold, the lower mount bushing is gone, shock mount became slotted and the shocks center rod was badly worn out. i guess both the worn out shocks rod and the slotted mounting is the by-product when the rubber bushing is gone (rubbing each other without the "rubber insert"). had read somewhere that there's a recall for this, had discussed with my SA if my unit is included in the list of affected units (sadly my VIN was not included in their system list).
my next casa visit will be the change-out of the oil dip stick as advised by my SA (original dip stick is a bit "short" and stocks haven't arrive yet). note that only some TBZ model engine oil dip stick are affected with this recall, mine is included.
shocks assembly cost and labor cost: (total = 12,600.00)
> Front shock absorber - 4,500.00/set (only 3200 at thunder)
> Shock absorber mounting - 1,500.00/set (only 750 at thunder)
> Shock absorber bushing (upper/lower) - 300.00/set
> labor - FOC
i should have waited for the parts (if i'll order from thunder) but when i saw one of the shock absorber's center rod, i can't really gamble for my safety for a few thousand pesos.

Thanks for the informative reply bro.

The weather mate and the floods with contamination is the real cause, learned that the hard way before. Happened to my Montero and Fortuner too a lot. Good Ground Clearance/Wading Depth, so why not go into a 300 or 400mm flooded street or any flood that would hit the hubs? A couple of weeks later, and some errors may appear on your dashboard, like ESC/ESP Off, Traction Control, Service Vehicle Soon, ABS, Service 4WD and the list may go on and on. When this happens, know that your Wheel Bearings got shot. If grease is fresh, not contaminated, not full of dirt, chances are the bearings may last the lifetime of the car. Sealed systems are no good as well, they are more expensive too and no service can be done on them. Metal can't be left to eat in Metal without some sort of a long lasting lubrication and protection from dirt and contamination, bad news is they need frequent refresh, we just skip over it because of the labor cost and time.

Even though the SUV is built for that, the consequences sometimes are no good without immediate maintenance. Rubber is the same story, it gets brittle and acid makes it's magic with it along with road dirt as well as heat. As a matter of fact, all suspension rubber got to be washed properly, no detergents, and greased with some high end silicone based solutions or even a Lithium Complex, esp before rainy season, just to make sure. Even a Silicon Based WD-40 may do the trick, just make sure that all rubber is washed perfectly first to apply it freshly.

I also use Silicon Based WD-40 in the rubber rails of my windows, to assist in making the glass slides better, and break dirt, with less friction to not overload the motors, works like a charm.

I wish I have the place and equipment to inspect under chassis regularly myself and maintain it every 2K or so, but you know...

If you don't mind, what year/model your TB is? Unacceptable mate that they will manufacture a car with the wrong dipstick length, saw some videos about that in AUS. This is amateur hour if you ask me, either making me overload the engine with insane amount of oil, or starve the engine from enough oil. Pure negligence on Chevy part.

Happy ride bro!

**Gumusut_Amige** · July 4th, 2018 12:18 PM

^^^ mine was acquired last quarter of 2014, LT variant only bro.
actually i have a plan to restore the worn out metal parts and will make them as spares. i can get also a much durable rubber bushing in my locality.
thanks for sharing the usefulness of wd40 as lubricant.

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**shadyanderson09** · July 4th, 2018 12:57 PM

Way to go bro

.

Just make sure that it's a silicone based and not just a plain WD-40, plain WD-40 will kill the rubber big time mate.

**Gumusut_Amige** · July 4th, 2018 02:39 PM

Originally Posted by shadyanderson09

Way to go bro

.

Just make sure that it's a silicone based and not just a plain WD-40, plain WD-40 will kill the rubber big time mate.

many thanks bro, i'll put that in mind.

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**Gumusut_Amige** · July 7th, 2018 08:49 AM

the photo depicts how bad the 2 rubbing parts when the shock absorber bushing is gone.

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**shadyanderson09** · July 7th, 2018 09:46 AM

Metal eats metal mate, ain't nothing gonna save them from doing so.

Every once and a while on a Highway, turn off your radio and listen carefully, sharp turns and listen, bumps and listen, straight line and leave the steering wheel (Responsibly) and observe man, you will be able to spot all these problems early in case they arise.

Under chassis inspection is always a must if you have the place and equipment, but not everyone is fortunate enough for that. I do it when cleaning the under chassis in a gasoline station, the vehicle is left high and for those you can't spot you can ask the guys to observe for you. Also when doing your wheel alignment.

Your best bet in that case is an under-chassis shop inspection, P400 or so, they will left the car and let you know if there is any, will be a good chance to check it yourself as well. 3 and 9 o'clock as well as 12 and 6 o'clock for all your wheels will also make you check your wheel bearings and tie roads. Not always the case though since in rare situations they won't wiggle when pushed but they will emit a harsh sound when you roll the wheels freely, you will be able hear them.

Don't rebuild these stuff mate, they are gone and your safety is first. Thanks God big time bro.

**kiwileader88** · July 7th, 2018 10:01 AM

Hello all,

Can somebody confirm that these parts are correct.
Trailblazer Chevrolet 2015 LTZ SE.
Thanks a lot.

Pulley Idler. GM# 94722018
12605492
Pulley Timing Belt Idler GM# 12581701

Bearing Tensioner GM# 12625560
Belt Timing GM# 12625215
Drive belt 6PK2871 (Gates Micto-V K061130) 13/16" x 113 5/8" OC
Tensioner Auto GM# 24585348
Water pump GM# 12645126