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  1. Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    7
    #841
    Quote Originally Posted by joseph20 View Post
    How much po ba inaabot kay mang mario ng AC cleaning and freon charge?? like a sedan.
    Good question..Sayang din kc ung gas going to mang mario's shop, you also need to budget how much you'd bring with you, and not knowing if they can fix the problem would be a waste of both money and time..i know ganun tlaga, magastos tlga may oto..my point is..HINDI ba member mga mechanics ni mang mario dito sa tsikot..hehehe..astig sana..atleast straight from them, kahit estimate lang.

  2. Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Posts
    1,419
    #842
    bakit di mo na lang tawagan sa phone nila, hintayin natin yung mga may alam ng phone ni mang Mario, kasi ako tinawagan ko rin kasi tama ka para alam mo kung magkano ang dadalhin mong pera, kaya lang nawala na sa listahan ko ang number kaya di ko maibigay sa iyo.

  3. Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    50
    #843
    How long usually ang pagpapagawa ng aircon kay mang mario? ( gawa as in cleaning and takip mga butas ( kasi pumapasok ang usok, pag sa dagat naman amoy utot.)

  4. Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Posts
    44
    #844
    Quote Originally Posted by jojiesal View Post
    One side of the relay coil is connected in series with the thermostat, a/c switch, and fan motor speed control switch. The common terminal of the fan motor switch is grounded and there is a + 12v ignition switched connection going to the fan motor, the thermostat and the a/c switch which all seems fine. However, I traced the other side of the relay coil going to a small black box labeled WL81 located under the glove box compartment of my 2002 2.9L XL ranger. I don't know what exactly this box is for but it contains a small printed circuit board about the size of a cigarette pack. Is this an engine control unit and could this be the source of my problem. Could anyone tell me what this black box is?
    Is there a reputable auto a/c electrical shop that could readily analyze my problem and not do guesswork on my a/c problem.
    When it comes to electronics better keep the local shops aside and do it yourself. It is either you replace that unit (Anybody can do this) or have it repaired in some electronics shops. Most car shops have zero to no knowledge at all in electronics and is very disturbing watching them doing bypasses not to mention electrical tapes here and there.

    You are already correct with avoiding bypasses. This circuit board you are referring to is the same as in some cars, a module that triggers your A/C clutch. The moment you switch your aircon on it'll send signal by 12V or ground to trigger this circuit and from there it will trigger your A/C relay. Usually there is a protection diode that protects voltage spikes from the coil. This can be built-in inside your module or in the hood depending on make. This module is responsible in giving a delay prior to launch the A/C clutch to make the transition of the loads of A/C compressor load easier for the engine. This module also can be responsible to give signal to regulate your RPM higher to cope up with loads.

    In my honda civic for example. This goes together with the ECU. Other guys would just jump this bridge hence your engine will not like it and it is totally disturbing on the idle.

    If this unit is bad. It is possible that this unit can trigger aircon systems going on and off. Possible failures to this unit is a stupid mechanic hence destroying your electronics by periodically busting out your fuses by shortening things out or through flood/water/moisture.

    DIY is very simple and easy even for beginner when you have a helms manual with you. Wires are pretty much color coded and fail safe to install. Plug and play.

    Hope this helps.

  5. Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Posts
    44
    #845
    Quote Originally Posted by jerompot2002 View Post
    Hi po I'm new here at Tsikot....baka Kaya to ni Mang MARIO
    This problems happened to my Car all at the same time yesterday ....My car is Honda LXI 01
    Please Help po!!!

    1. Umaandar and blower ng aircon pero walang lamig (compressor di umaandar)
    2. Nawala ang power lock (central) pero ok ang power windows.
    3. Palagi naka ilaw handbrake indicator kahit na nakababa na.

    What do u think po ang problem?
    Napacheck ko na po sa dalawang good Auto Aircon Electrical shop (Rey's Auto Marikina at RAE Auto) di talaga ma solve ang problem. na try na din nila i recta umaandar naman lahat ng unit, walang problema sa compressor etc... sabi nila walang problema sa aircon unit
    They;ve check all fuse etc..... ok naman lahat kapag naka direct ay umaandar naman ang aircon. mukhang ang problem daw ay sa ECU or Computer box
    After almost 4 hours of analyzing walang nangyari....
    They referred me na to bring my Car to Honda Casa kasi nga daw mukhang computer box na ang problem..

    Help naman po baka may experience kayo na ganito ang problema na sabay sabay ang sira.....
    Thanks...
    I can guarantee you it is 95% the ECU. You don't need 4 hours to check this. Simply switch A/C on. If your RPM goes up like above 1k rpm and your compressor doesn't run it means your output signal of ECU is busted.
    Someone messed with your A/C and shortened the output to ground because this is usually protected with a diode and sometimes people just jumper this and voila instant burned ECU.

    If nothing happens it could be your ECU is not getting ground signal (for honda it's ground signal to trigger ECU to trigger the clutch). If this is the case the transistor needs also to be replaced.

    The ECU for honda i usually lower right side of the passengers side. Have your ECU repaired in Evangelista or so. They repair these units. I had this same problem and all it took was to replace the transistor IC responsible for the A/C inside the ECU. Purchasing a new one will cost you a fortune.

    Your CAR is running right? Meaning the ECU is not totally damaged. Why buy an entire ECU just because the A/C is broken. Get that transistor IC replaced or fixed. Some shops in evangelista repair those ECUs.

  6. Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Posts
    44
    #846
    Sa mga nag paayos kela mang mario. What equipments do they have? Do they have a leak tester? I think may leak ako somewhere in my system. My aircon ran for 4 years straight without cleaning or recharging.. Now I need to refill every 6 months or so. I'm looking for an A/C shop with leak detector. Kc sa mga tabi tabi they use soap. Don't think this'll work for very small leaks. I'm afraid that they might just charge me and do stuff on my car not to mention that no shop will put a 6month guarantee on their work.

  7. Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    7
    #847
    Quote Originally Posted by franzhelmer View Post
    I can guarantee you it is 95% the ECU. You don't need 4 hours to check this. Simply switch A/C on. If your RPM goes up like above 1k rpm and your compressor doesn't run it means your output signal of ECU is busted.
    Someone messed with your A/C and shortened the output to ground because this is usually protected with a diode and sometimes people just jumper this and voila instant burned ECU.

    If nothing happens it could be your ECU is not getting ground signal (for honda it's ground signal to trigger ECU to trigger the clutch). If this is the case the transistor needs also to be replaced.

    The ECU for honda i usually lower right side of the passengers side. Have your ECU repaired in Evangelista or so. They repair these units. I had this same problem and all it took was to replace the transistor IC responsible for the A/C inside the ECU. Purchasing a new one will cost you a fortune.

    Your CAR is running right? Meaning the ECU is not totally damaged. Why buy an entire ECU just because the A/C is broken. Get that transistor IC replaced or fixed. Some shops in evangelista repair those ECUs.
    I also have a similar problem but with a different twist. The coil side of my A/C compressor relay has a 12 v reading when I switched on the ignition without switching on the A/C switch and blower therefore my compressor is always "On" and doesn't cycle as it should . Two reputable shops failed to diagnose my A/C problem. I have a 2nd hand 2002 Ford ranger 2.9 XL. However when I brought it to Ford Commonwealth they said that my PCM(powertrain control module) is the culprit. I was shocked to know that my very old ranger's PCM will cost me P86,000.00. Looking for a second opinion I brought my unit to Rolly's Electrical at Don Antonio, QC and they told me that indeed it is the PCM. So Rolly said he could remedy the problem by installing an old school manual thermostat and bypassing the PCM. this only cost me P850 parts and labor. I agreed to bypass the PCM is so I could use my ride when it rains in the mean time that my PCM is still not repaired.

    My question now is will bypassing the PCM by my A/C affect my engine's performance and/or the A/C itself. My idling just went down a notch when my A/C is on however,I don't often use my ride so I really can't fully evaluate it at the moment.
    Last edited by jojiesal; November 19th, 2009 at 08:24 AM. Reason: added more information

  8. Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    7
    #848
    Quote Originally Posted by franzhelmer View Post
    I can guarantee you it is 95% the ECU. You don't need 4 hours to check this. Simply switch A/C on. If your RPM goes up like above 1k rpm and your compressor doesn't run it means your output signal of ECU is busted.
    Someone messed with your A/C and shortened the output to ground because this is usually protected with a diode and sometimes people just jumper this and voila instant burned ECU.

    If nothing happens it could be your ECU is not getting ground signal (for honda it's ground signal to trigger ECU to trigger the clutch). If this is the case the transistor needs also to be replaced.

    The ECU for honda i usually lower right side of the passengers side. Have your ECU repaired in Evangelista or so. They repair these units. I had this same problem and all it took was to replace the transistor IC responsible for the A/C inside the ECU. Purchasing a new one will cost you a fortune.

    Your CAR is running right? Meaning the ECU is not totally damaged. Why buy an entire ECU just because the A/C is broken. Get that transistor IC replaced or fixed. Some shops in evangelista repair those ECUs.
    Do you know or could recommend some shops in evangelista that repair ECUs or PCMs

  9. Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Posts
    44
    #849
    Quote Originally Posted by jojiesal View Post
    Do you know or could recommend some shops in evangelista that repair ECUs or PCMs
    Yes it is heavy on the engines side running the aircon on low RPM.

    #1 you get not so cool air as when having a good idle
    #2 it's very irritating to drive. your idle will drop when a/c kicks in during highway and traffic. you can get into accidents. Like kung d ka sanay na bigla mag up ung rpm pag nag cut off ung A/C then hit the car in front of you.
    #3 this is not the solution
    #4 will give you problems when converting back to orig.
    #5 No engine likes to idle at low rpms. It's stressfull for an engine. normal is 600 rpms~800 rpms for gas type.

    Solution is you get one at ebay. Note down the code model of your pcm.
    1L5A-BEC PCM module is for example 124.95$ . A good advise is shipping with DHL or Fedex around 40$~60$ (3~10 days). All you need is a credit card. I won't borrow mines sorry hehe. You need paypal or have a relative in the states.
    #6 it is harder to troubleshoot your A/C when something indeed goes wrong again. not to mention your original thermostat will be disabled.


    You don't want to mess with the Philippine customs because they are a pain in the TOOT specially in paranaque and might charge you unreasonably. Tell the aircon shop guys na ibalik yung dati or you'll regret that they might have messed up your original wirings and plugs. Happened to me already. Been there done that. They replaced everything with manual thermostats blahblah. The wiring was all left open with electrical tapes. I wanted to rewire everything back to orig but figured pinutol nila lahat ng plugs and wires. I had to rip off my entire wire harness just to trace which wire was which. Eventually I was cursing that A/C mechanic while I was converting it back to orig. I even had to buy the original plugs again from a surplus shop..

    I suggest you just get one from the states (2nd hand para no tax). Then plug it in. Then tapos na ung problema. Unless the technician messed your wirings na and doesn't know which is which and destroys your new PCM. 86,000 php is nonesense. If you need guiding assistance how to get your unit working you can PM me.

  10. Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Posts
    44
    #850
    Quote Originally Posted by jojiesal View Post
    I also have a similar problem but with a different twist. The coil side of my A/C compressor relay has a 12 v reading when I switched on the ignition without switching on the A/C switch and blower therefore my compressor is always "On" and doesn't cycle as it should . Two reputable shops failed to diagnose my A/C problem. I have a 2nd hand 2002 Ford ranger 2.9 XL. However when I brought it to Ford Commonwealth they said that my PCM(powertrain control module) is the culprit. I was shocked to know that my very old ranger's PCM will cost me P86,000.00. Looking for a second opinion I brought my unit to Rolly's Electrical at Don Antonio, QC and they told me that indeed it is the PCM. So Rolly said he could remedy the problem by installing an old school manual thermostat and bypassing the PCM. this only cost me P850 parts and labor. I agreed to bypass the PCM is so I could use my ride when it rains in the mean time that my PCM is still not repaired.

    My question now is will bypassing the PCM by my A/C affect my engine's performance and/or the A/C itself. My idling just went down a notch when my A/C is on however,I don't often use my ride so I really can't fully evaluate it at the moment.
    If you have a 12V reading this means it's always grounded or shorted. Since your PCM output is PNP type. Meaning it gives ground to get the 12V and removes the ground by turning off. Yes try have it fixed at some ECU repair shop. It should cost you nothing to have it looked at. Could be transistor pack or diode is burned through. Diodes usually short themselves out very often. I had the opposite symptom before. It never turned on. But now it's fixed for 700php. Turns out some transistor were busted inside so I replaced em. Or check out "Speedlab" and ask them what they think.

Aircon Repair: Mario Reyes