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  1. Join Date
    Nov 2002
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    1,326
    #1
    We have a Subaru Hatchback Impreza...

    today.. this is the 3rd (or 4th na ata) time that a wheel stud (yung bolt na kinakapitan ng magwheels) break.. as in break into two....

    tipong tatanggalin mo pa lang yung nut (to change a flat).. mapuputol yung bolt...

    costs about 800 to have it replaced sa casa... and at least a half day.... minsan pati yung onboard computer (for what reason I can't comprehend) nagkaka problem pa pagkatapos nila palitan yung stud....


    any of you guys here experience the same thing? and how to avoid this?

    we tried our best na to really get the nut as careful as we can... pero ganun pa rin....

  2. Join Date
    Mar 2008
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    54,627
    #2
    seems to me you got a metallurgical problem with the spares.. mebbe the entire shipment is affected.. what does casa say?

  3. Join Date
    May 2006
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    8,357
    #3
    over tightened yan bro or yung karaniwang problema ng mga taxi driver na babad sa init ng araw then biglang umulan lumulutong yung mga stud.

  4. Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    4,347
    #4
    over tightened yan bro or yung karaniwang problema ng mga taxi driver na babad sa init ng araw then biglang umulan lumulutong yung mga stud.
    i'll go with this... kasi kahit sa truck nangyayari ito dahil sa paghigpit nila ay may gamit pang extension na tubo.

    bro, is it happening to the same tire/stud location?

  5. Join Date
    Jan 2009
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    6,460
    #5
    Three thoughts:

    1. These studs can usually take a lot of abuse. I would also think that it may be due to a quality issue. Or...
    2. The studs may have been inadvertently over-tightened. Make sure that they're properly torqued to specifications.
    3. Still, you may want to consider applying a reasonable amount of anti-seizing compound on the stud to keep the wheel nut from sticking.

  6. Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    1,906
    #6
    Get a torque wrench. Most lugnuts need just 98-105 Nm of torque to tighten to spec - any more and the lug bolts will snap. That's the scientific way of going about it. If the studs are still snapping after wrenching the lugnuts to spec, you have bad metallurgy to blame.

    For purposes of tightening lugnuts, a micrometer torque wrench is better, despite being more expensive. The wrench will let you know by an audible click that your preset torque has been reached - no need to keep looking at a beam while you're tightening.

    PhP1500 for a torque wrench might be expensive to you now, but if it will let you avoid breaking lug bolts in the future I'd call it an investment. Besides, it's a tool - it should be good for years.
    Last edited by Type 100; November 28th, 2012 at 09:24 PM.

  7. Join Date
    Oct 2002
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    10,819
    #7
    question lang. is the nut free from the broken piece of bolt or is it seized (kinalawang dun sa bolt)?

    if it is free then overtorque yan. sabihan mo si conan huwag masyado higpitan pag nagpalit ng gulong. also dapat as much as possible e pantay ang torque kasi kung mas mataas ang torque sa isang nut e yung nut na yun ang magdadala ng halos buong load at yung ibang nut e wala halos load at yun ang mapuputol.

    pag seized then you need to use some anti-seize compound like NeverSeize or CopaSlip. kung wala ka makita kahit ordinary water resistant grease pwede na but you will need to apply every time you loosen the nut.

  8. Join Date
    Nov 2002
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    1,326
    #8
    thanks guys.. will try that anti sieze... and also the torque wrench...

    ang weird lang kasi... sa mga naging service ko (revo, innova, ranger) di naman nagkakaganito.... now na subaru... dito pa nagkakaganito...

    i somehow get the idea of using a torque wrench.. but.. it is quite rare to see torque wrench being used sa pag change lang ng tires / spares...

    so mukhang kailangan na ilagay torque wrench / anti siezing agent sa car as regular tool box stuff...

  9. Join Date
    Nov 2002
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    1,326
    #9
    Quote Originally Posted by Syuryuken View Post
    over tightened yan bro or yung karaniwang problema ng mga taxi driver na babad sa init ng araw then biglang umulan lumulutong yung mga stud.
    although I can understand yung portion na problem ng mga taxi driver... pero assumed yan sa car na babad nga sa labas buong mag hapon... ang nangyari kanina.. was parked at the mall.. after the mall, on the next stop... yun na flat.. nung tinatanggal yung wheels.. ayun.. naputol...



    bro, is it happening to the same tire/stud location?
    sa awa ng diyos, iba ibang gulong (side) ang nangyayari.. di pa naman naulit on the same side...


    question lang. is the nut free from the broken piece of bolt or is it seized (kinalawang dun sa bolt)?

    yung last naalala ko, the stud was broken into 2... nakakapit pa sa nut yung kaputol na stud... that was courtesy of this vulcanizing shop boy who was too eager to do his job... pinagsasabihan na while he was working on it.. sige pa rin.. di ko na nga babalikan yung vulcanizing shop na yun eh... suki pa naman yun sana (on the other vehicles)...


    pag seized then you need to use some anti-seize compound like NeverSeize or CopaSlip. kung wala ka makita kahit ordinary water resistant grease pwede na but you will need to apply every time you loosen the nut.
    saan po mabibili yung NeverSeize / CopaSlip? ACE? Handyman? Concorde? sa Blaze meron kaya?


    weird lang talaga eh.. sa ibang sasakyan di ko pa to na encounter.. dito lang talaga sa Subaru...

  10. Join Date
    Nov 2002
    Posts
    1,326
    #10
    May nakita ako lithium grease. Water proof nakalagay sa spray can... Pwede ba yun? So far ala ako mahanap na neverseize.

  11. Join Date
    Jan 2009
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    6,460
    #11
    Quote Originally Posted by wowiesy View Post
    May nakita ako lithium grease. Water proof nakalagay sa spray can... Pwede ba yun? So far ala ako mahanap na neverseize.
    No, don't use any other types of grease. It should be capable of handling high temperature. Typically, copper grease is used to serve as both lubricant and anti-seizing compound.

    I still have this lying in the garage that I use on my bikes' brake pads (back side), guide pins and anywhere it requires an anti-seize grease. I've had it for more than 10 years I think that I've forgotten where I bought it from.


  12. Join Date
    Dec 2007
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    1,906
    #12
    Quote Originally Posted by wowiesy View Post
    thanks guys.. will try that anti sieze... and also the torque wrench...

    ang weird lang kasi... sa mga naging service ko (revo, innova, ranger) di naman nagkakaganito.... now na subaru... dito pa nagkakaganito...

    i somehow get the idea of using a torque wrench.. but.. it is quite rare to see torque wrench being used sa pag change lang ng tires / spares...

    so mukhang kailangan na ilagay torque wrench / anti siezing agent sa car as regular tool box stuff...
    Yes, its use is rather rare. The only place I've seen mechanics use a torque wrench on lugnuts is AutoPlus, and they're not exactly your run-of-the-mill garage. If you're interested in buying your own, I got mine at True Value, although not all the branches have it in stock and you might have to do some cross-shopping to see the micrometer type I recommend.

    For Japanese cars there are two different thread pitches for lug bolts and lugnuts.
    M12x1.5 is the more common variety used by Mitsubishi, Toyota, Daihatsu, Honda and Suzuki, among others.
    M12x1.25, the smaller thread pitch, is used by Nissan and Subaru (I'm not sure who else).
    This still doesn't explain why you had lug bolt trouble with your Subaru, though...I maintain that if torque is correct, then bad metallurgy is to blame.

  13. Join Date
    Sep 2012
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    2,809
    #13
    Quote Originally Posted by Type 100 View Post
    Yes, its use is rather rare. The only place I've seen mechanics use a torque wrench on lugnuts is AutoPlus, and they're not exactly your run-of-the-mill garage. If you're interested in buying your own, I got mine at True Value, although not all the branches have it in stock and you might have to do some cross-shopping to see the micrometer type I recommend.
    Sir,

    Can you be more specific on the True Value branch/location where you got the torque wrench? I just need to know if its near our place... Thanks

  14. Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    1,906
    #14
    Quote Originally Posted by jodski View Post
    Sir,

    Can you be more specific on the True Value branch/location where you got the torque wrench? I just need to know if its near our place... Thanks
    I got mine at True Value Park Square. There's another branch within walking distance at the new Glorietta 1 3F.

  15. Join Date
    Sep 2012
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    2,809
    #15
    Quote Originally Posted by Type 100 View Post
    I got mine at True Value Park Square. There's another branch within walking distance at the new Glorietta 1 3F.
    Thanks! madalas din ako mapadaan dito :hooray:

  16. Join Date
    Nov 2002
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    1,326
    #16
    Quote Originally Posted by oj88 View Post

    No, don't use any other types of grease. It should be capable of handling high temperature. Typically, copper grease is used to serve as both lubricant and anti-seizing compound.

    I still have this lying in the garage that I use on my bikes' brake pads (back side), guide pins and anywhere it requires an anti-seize grease. I've had it for more than 10 years I think that I've forgotten where I bought it from.
    Copper grease? Iba pa yun?

  17. Join Date
    Nov 2002
    Posts
    1,326
    #17
    Quote Originally Posted by Type 100 View Post
    Yes, its use is rather rare. The only place I've seen mechanics use a torque wrench on lugnuts is AutoPlus, and they're not exactly your run-of-the-mill garage. If you're interested in buying your own, I got mine at True Value, although not all the branches have it in stock and you might have to do some cross-shopping to see the micrometer type I recommend.

    For Japanese cars there are two different thread pitches for lug bolts and lugnuts.
    M12x1.5 is the more common variety used by Mitsubishi, Toyota, Daihatsu, Honda and Suzuki, among others.
    M12x1.25, the smaller thread pitch, is used by Nissan and Subaru (I'm not sure who else).
    This still doesn't explain why you had lug bolt trouble with your Subaru, though...I maintain that if torque is correct, then bad metallurgy is to blame.
    Nkakita na ako handyman ng torque wrench..

    Duda ako d kaya yung nut ay iba ang thread spec sa thread spec ng stud?

    Sa youtube on how to use torque wrench... Bale may extension bar pa then socket wrench.... Anong size ba ilan mm usually mga nut ng tires?

    Yung anti seizing agent talaga san nakabili? Another one broke off yesterday as i bought rubber for the damaged one... Nasira sa banawe nung nagpalit ng gulong uli...

  18. Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    6,460
    #18
    Quote Originally Posted by wowiesy View Post
    Copper grease? Iba pa yun?
    Most anti-seize lubricants and grease are copper-based.

  19. Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    1,906
    #19
    Quote Originally Posted by wowiesy View Post
    Nkakita na ako handyman ng torque wrench..

    Duda ako d kaya yung nut ay iba ang thread spec sa thread spec ng stud?

    Sa youtube on how to use torque wrench... Bale may extension bar pa then socket wrench.... Anong size ba ilan mm usually mga nut ng tires?
    A torque wrench is meant to be used with a socket set, so it should be able to tighten, loosen and set torque to any bolt or nut as long as you have the socket for it. The torque wrench is the bar you're referring to - it's NOT an extension or breaker bar.

    Lugnuts are measured externally by hex size. A typical cross wrench can work on four of the most common lugnut sizes: 17mm, 19mm, 21mm and 23mm. On my Jazz the stock lugnut size is 19mm hex, although I moved to 17mm to fit my current wheels and 21mm on my old ones. Hex size should not be an issue with breaking lug bolts.

    If you still have stock lugnuts I doubt they have the wrong thread size. Cross-threading would usually occur if you swapped out the stock lugnuts for aftermarket ones without matching the thread pitch.

  20. Join Date
    Nov 2002
    Posts
    1,326
    #20
    Wala sa manual ng subaru yung torque settings so have to check casa siguro...

    Weird lang talaga... Napuputol stud kapag niluluwagan yung nut... Yung isa nga halos totally loose na dun pa sumabit ... So higpit ng konti... Then luwag uli... A couple of times... Bumigay pa rin....

    Anyway saw copper grease na sa concorde... Will get torque wrench na rin to tighten it to specs... ( i used to think na sa engine ang applicable yung ma tighten to the right torque yung mga bolts and nuts...pati pala tire studs... ).

    But i think i got another step clser to just selling off this subaru...

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For the Nth time, a broken wheel stud