Mazda B-Series (B2200/B2500)

**lnce420** · March 20th, 2009 01:07 AM

Carefully take off the glow plugs then use a VOM (volt-ohm) meter to test the resistance of each plug.

Question for measuring resistance..
vom connectors should be connected from tip to the other tip of the glow plugs?

or

from the top tip to the body of the glow plug?

saan po yung shorthorn?

**reyp3k** · March 20th, 2009 01:35 AM

i hav a `91 b2200 un din problema ko oil leak sa plastic cover nd sa may transmission inoverhaul na anmin ng utol ko ang problema dun agad leak nya kaooverhaul pa lang my leak agad sa halfmoon daw sa patungan yata ng camshft di na mgwa sa machne shp. any suggestions

**reyp3k** · March 20th, 2009 01:44 AM

tsaka to all members bago lang kc ako dito,., since i dont have any plan to sell my b22 coz almst 18 yrs na cya samin sbi nga dad ko dont sell it use it hnggat kaya pa irepair n lng,. san mura nd gud quality mkabili ng headlights nd ms mgnda kng mga mpaorma na ilaw pati mga taillights pang b22 tnx

**duskylim** · March 21st, 2009 11:21 AM

Dear Ince420:

To test the resistance of the glow plug/s place one lead on the tip (where the electrical supply is attached to on top) and the other on the plug body.

The circuit for the glow plug is simple, its a purely resistive load. There is a single long metal rail (made of copper) which bolts onto all of the plugs on top - and is held in place by shiny little nuts, 7 mm or 8 mm in diameter.

The nuts attach to a fine threaded post out of the top of the glow plug (like that of a spark plug if you remove the cap nut).

The plug is grounded by threads on its metal body to the cylinder head/engine assembly which is grounded to the battery's negative terminal.

When you turn the ignition switch ON, you trigger the glow plug relay and the plug timer, which controls how long the system glows, too short, not enough heat - no START.

Too long - burned out plugs.

Note: the opposite tip is the glowing part itself, its round and smooth and covers a resistor element which does the heating.

If you test with the VOM this it should show that it is open (very high or infinite resistance) to the plug body and low resistance with the threaded lead on top.

Hope this clears things up.

BTW Shorthorn is the road coming from Congressional Avenue, going towards Project 8. The best way to get to Gener's calibration shop (DRT - Del Rosario Trading) is to go to Congressional Ave, then turn into Shorthorn.

Once you get to Congressional, anybody from there will know where Shorthorn is, and from there just drive straight up past the stoplight and McDo and Seven-Eleven and from there you should be able to find Gener's shop.

Best Regards,

Dusky Lim

**duskylim** · March 21st, 2009 11:47 AM

Dear reyp3k:

Welcome to our thread.

Where is the plastic cover you mentioned? Saan parte sya ng makina? Half-moon seals are generally available with the overhauling gasket kit. Wala ba sya sa kit ng binili nyo?

In any case any good Mazda/Ford parts supplier here in Manila (di ko alam sa Bataan) should be able to provide it.

If you need an emergency fix, get any other half-moon seal that fits and use a lot of silicone sealant around it and on the cleaned, dry cylinder head and cover. That should reduce most of the leak.

Tapos kapag nakabili ka na ng tamang seal duon mo na ayusin ng final.

As to the headlights, sira na ba sila? Or is it just a bulb problem? Kung di pa naman sira, eh madali lang yan, bumila ka ng okey na bumbilya.

I recommend Bosch replacement bulbs. They are reasonably priced (<1000 Php a pair) and the new models, use only 55W/60W for low/high beam pero ang ilaw is equal to 90W/100W - ok di ba?

Best Regards,

Dusky Lim

**rna800** · March 25th, 2009 11:46 AM

Guys, I start to hear this sound and I don't know how to mimic it but the sound is like a flexible about to wear out. If you have already heard a worn out flexible, you know what I am talking about. I tried to have it checked it Mufflerland and they said the sound is coming from the engine and not from the flexi. I brought it to my trusted shop, and my mechanic told me, I forgot the name of that part but if my mind serves me correctly, he said something about injection??? I couldn't remember it anymore. He said that it will not stall the vehicle but time will come that I will hear it for a longer period of time and the it will be more audible. For now, I only hear that for about 30 to 45 seconds upon starting and everytime I start the vehicle. Maybe you have encountered this and you could share your insights. For its running condition, it's still the same. I don't feel anything unusual considering it has clocked almost 211k kms. Thanks!

**ar_moj** · March 26th, 2009 12:20 AM

hi guys ulet..hehe..im really new here...ask ko lang about dun nga sa b2500 conversion..kasya ba ung harap na bumper with headlights and grill or kelangan pa baguhin mga ibang parts..then about sa speed..medyo mabagal kasi..is it possible to put a new ford engine..? hehe..just thinking..and taillights...does anyone know san makakabili tailights na smoke..or kahit black..if meron LED hehe...mas ok..tnx tnx,...hehe..

**duskylim** · March 26th, 2009 06:21 PM

Dear rna800:

Sir, just to make sure, dalhin mo sya sa shop o garahe ng gasolinahan na may LIFTER at ipa-lift mo. That way makikita mo mismo kung sa flexible pipe o ibang parte ng tambusto sya galing.

If not, well condolences pre, kung injection pump sya tulad ng sinabi ng mekaniko mo mabigat ang problema mo.

If it does indeed turn out to be the flexible pipe, just go to banawe st, and buy the brand-new one for the Hyundai Starex, exactly the same diameter, (2 inch - I.D. - internal diameter) but about 2 inches longer at 8 inches of flexible section - just needs a little adjustment during the fit.

Bakit yung para sa STAREX? Well, unang-una, BAGO sya, at isa pa, MURA sya (about Php 1,200 per piece) there are a lot of unscrupulous animals out there that will try to sell you a USED part for more than Php 2,000!!!

Ignore those people, or if you have a rabid dog, ipa kagat mo sila - baka cla tumino!

When you go to have it replaced, try to find a muffler shop with either oxy-acetylene welding or better yet, MIG (metal-inert gas) welding.

Never have exhaust system parts attached with conventional electric (actually called SMAW - shielded metal arc welding) welding - the joint is just too brittle for the motion and vibration of your exhaust system and it will fail - at kakaladkad ang tambusto mo, happy new year!

Regards,

Dusky Lim

**duskylim** · March 26th, 2009 06:37 PM

Dear ar_moj:

Di ko kabisado ang conversion mula sa B2200 to B2500, ngunit parang may kaibahan ang pinaka nguso ng B2500 vs B2200. I admit malapit pero di ko alam kung sasaksak.

For example, the hood of the B2200 is flat and has a slightly curved front edge, while on the B2500 there is shallow central hump and slightly pointed front edge.

In other words, I'm sure its possible but it may not turn out to be a drop-in replacement. Best to consult an experienced body shop.

As to the engine well, meron na akong mga kaibigan na nagpalit na ng makina ng B2200. They say the R-series diesel is a drop-in replacement and there is a turbo version of it. Also its more powerful daw than the old B2200 engine.

I'm also pretty sure the FORD turbo diesel engine will drop in to the B2500 engine bay.

Why? Well na abutan ko ang kapit bahay ko na naghuhugas ng makina ng Ford Everest nyang bago. Sinilip ko and to my surprise, it looks exactly like my WL-31 engine in my B2500 except for the turbo stuff.

Kaya confident ako salpak sya sa B2500. What I'm not sure of is kung salpak sya sa B2200.

I don't know why you should want to darken your tail lights as they are bright to warn people behind not to BUMP into you - di ba?

Regards,

Dusky Lim

**rna800** · March 26th, 2009 07:54 PM

Originally Posted by duskylim

Dear rna800:

Sir, just to make sure, dalhin mo sya sa shop o garahe ng gasolinahan na may LIFTER at ipa-lift mo. That way makikita mo mismo kung sa flexible pipe o ibang parte ng tambusto sya galing.

If not, well condolences pre, kung injection pump sya tulad ng sinabi ng mekaniko mo mabigat ang problema mo.

If it does indeed turn out to be the flexible pipe, just go to banawe st, and buy the brand-new one for the Hyundai Starex, exactly the same diameter, (2 inch - I.D. - internal diameter) but about 2 inches longer at 8 inches of flexible section - just needs a little adjustment during the fit.

Bakit yung para sa STAREX? Well, unang-una, BAGO sya, at isa pa, MURA sya (about Php 1,200 per piece) there are a lot of unscrupulous animals out there that will try to sell you a USED part for more than Php 2,000!!!

Ignore those people, or if you have a rabid dog, ipa kagat mo sila - baka cla tumino!

When you go to have it replaced, try to find a muffler shop with either oxy-acetylene welding or better yet, MIG (metal-inert gas) welding.

Never have exhaust system parts attached with conventional electric (actually called SMAW - shielded metal arc welding) welding - the joint is just too brittle for the motion and vibration of your exhaust system and it will fail - at kakaladkad ang tambusto mo, happy new year!

Regards,

Dusky Lim

Actually sir, the flexi that I have is from Mufflerland. I have tried Nodalos prior but the flexible that they installed was a surplus and it only lasted for 5 or 6 months, I guess. That is why I tried to look for other shops which I felt the same caliber as Nodalos, I ended up in Mufflerland (near Meadows in Fairview). I saw them in the net: mufflerland.com.ph. Pertaining to their welding equipment, I don't know what it's called but all they need to do is point without that long stick like thing anymore. Sorry, I am clueless to what they are called.hehe It cost me more than 2k+, I don't really remember the exact price since it was brand new and they also replaced the rubber fittings too. That is why when I started hearing that sound, I presumed right away that it was the flexi. What I did, without delay, I brought it to Mufflerland to have it checked. And they told it that the flexi and the rest of the muffler are still good. I couldn't face it right now since I still have a lot on my plate, but once I find the time, I will have the engine checked thoroughly. I just wish it is not as grave as shelling out 20k pesos.hehe