In my personal opinion there are no 'GOOD' tapping or knocking engine noises, they are all bad indications whatever the source.
What's more, the engine noise is more serious than a pressure build-up in the crankcase on revving - some small amount of blow-by leakage is to be expected, though not a lot - after all the piston rings are NOT perfect seals.
What should worry or concern you is if the blow-by back-pressure is sufficient to carry oil and vapor with it out of the crankcase.
Note: 'Masyado mausok' is NOT GOOD ENOUGH, being newly overhauled your engine should NOT SMOKE - period.
Many machine shops cannot get the correct clearances upon cylinder re-boring, I learned that the hard way, so when I do overhaul, I just replace the sleeves to bring the bore back to STANDARD.
Not only does that make the clearances ASSURED correct, but re-sleeving (a pressing in operation) is a lot cheaper than a rebore.
The lesson here is - don't assume the machine shop is more competent than it really is.
Generally a Tapping noise tells you that something is LOOSE (maluwag) inside the engine, and that it is hitting something else - hard enough for you to hear.
Clearly that's NOT GOOD.
Most likely is that you have a loose valve adjustment or rocker, but in any case, you should bring it back to the machine shop and demand satisfaction.
Best of Luck,
well it has no use here in manila. only in places where we have mildew/fog in the morning. hehe.
good news guys! we have one more b-series minitrucker attending the EB this sunday. thanks to niky!
friends from another site (pwede ba i-post?) will also be attending: abysstone and 2 of his friends. yey dami!
Well that's good news the more the merrier!
For those who are looking for errant underhood noises try an old trick - make yourself a mechanic's stethoscope.
Go to any well-stocked hardware and get the clear plastic pipe carpenter's use for leveling - its about 3/8 inch thick.
Buy 1 to 1.5 meters of pipe and wash it to remove any dirt.
Start your engine and put one end of the pipe in your ear and carefully rund the other end towards the source of noise.
This should help you to precisely locate where the noise is coming from and will make it much easier to diagnose the cause.
Good morning...tanong ko lang sana where pcv valve ng R2 engine? bigla na naman kasing nag smoke yung sa dipstick ng engine. and ano pa po ba pweding check palagi kasing high temp sasakyan ko ngayon... wow meron pa palang eb ngayon dito... mabuti nalang dumami na mga naka b series dito
@ Duskylim and to all.
Can you explain how the glow plug circuit works in our mazda b2500? Like when you put it in the ON or ignition mode, how many seconds will the timer
Also, does the timer have temperature sensor to detect if it needs to fire up the glow plugs or not? etc etc.
Lastly, where can I find the glow plug timer? was it in the right side kick panel?
Welcome to our thread.
This is my knowledge of the B2500 glow system:
The 4 glow plugs (type PZ-30 - if Kitahara) all bolt into the aluminum cylinder head which is grounded to the chassis via a ground wire at the back of the cylinder head, which connects to the vehicles' firewall.
They are supplied with 12 volt + via a long copper rail connecting to their positive terminals.
When continuity testing with a VOM, it is NOT unusual for working or brand-new glow plugs to show they are short-circuited.
In fact, only testing with a 12-volt charger will reveal if the glow plugs are working.
Clamp the chargers' negative lead to glow plug body and the touch the positive to the plug's positive terminal - the plug tip should heat up immediately.
NOTE: remove the chargers' positive lead immediately so as not to BURN OUT the plug!!!
This test is the ONLY way to assure the plug works.
The copper rail is supplied with power via a heavy-duty relay, mounted just behind the battery, and in front of the fuel filter, its about half the size of a pack of mini cigarettes.
The relay takes power from the main fuse box - a long black plastic box also behind the battery. All the fuses inside are easily identified by the writing stenciled on top.
The fuse closest to the engine - a 60 ampere fuse - is the one for the glow plugs.
This fuse gets its supply from the vehicle's main fuse itself - an 80 ampere fuse.
The main fuse is connected directly to the battery's + terminal.
The relay is switched from a line going into the dashboard and ignition.
Placing the ignition key in the 'ON' position starts the glow timer which runs for 4-5 seconds, then switches OFF, after which the key can be turned to the start position to start the engine.
There is no temperature sensor in the glow system for the B2500 or WL-31 engine.
I have not had to change my glow timer yet so I don't know where it is.
If I were you I would follow the lead from the glow relay towards the vehicle's interior - that would show you where it ends up.
When my glow relay broke I replaced it with one from a Hyundai Starex, and it works fine.
The auto supply told me that if I needed one, I could use the glow timer of the Starex also.
Hope this helps.
PS - rolandml - sir wala akong R2 kaya di ko alam kung nasaan yung pvc valve.
PPS - ichiban - you can also check out our previous posts on this thread regarding glow plugs and repairs, it should be informative.
Check if your engine oil is not excessive or if you have placed your dipstick well.
Keep your radiator clean inside and outside. Yung radiator fan mechanical type ba o clutch type, baka kasi kulang na sa tension.
yep! youngrider is correct sir. diesels have no pcv valves. replace radiator fluid (distilled water & your favorite coolant) every 6 months -1 year.
both of you are invited -- pati ikaw pala sir ichiban -- to the 2nd B-Series EB this Sunday, March 28, 8am. McDonald's Macapagal. requirement/s? you and your B-Series truck!
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