pacman's the best! bugbog clottey...hehe...
next na dudurugin,ang madaldal at walang bayag na si mayweather!
peace!
pacman's the best! bugbog clottey...hehe...
next na dudurugin,ang madaldal at walang bayag na si mayweather!
peace!
[quote=csi28;1435786]pacman's the best! bugbog clottey...hehe...
next na dudurugin,ang madaldal at walang bayag na si mayweather!
peace![/quote
hi to all of you guys, been busy this past few days, count me in 28 8am
san nga pala venue,? mcdo nga ba? tnx din sa pag welcome sa min ni sir csi,,, hope to meet all of you guys, see yahhhh
i agree with rivco..kundi sa pagiging makulit ni ronn wala magiging next EB..HAIL RONN!
hoping it will be more blast kasi maraming ng active posters dito at sasama sa next EB.
* rivco
sticker? it will be a long discussion. cguro kung may isa satin na may idea i think you can bring your ideas or share it para masaya.
* sir dusky
ngayon ko lang naiscan ng mabuti yun message mo para kay ronn. since gas fed din ako eh inoobserved ko din yun pagiging matigas ng fuel lines ng fiera ko. base sa mga nabasa ko dito sa mga threads may mga positive at negative feedbacks about sa E10 sa rides with carbs such as mine and ronn's..
most negatives na nakuha ko are the following:
1. Natutuyuan ang gas tank pagmatagal stagnant yun fuel sa loob ng tank. since ethanol ay isa din form ng alcohol.
2. Hardening of fuel lines and blockage on fuel filter.
3. Atleast 10% - 15% lost on engine power. since mixed premium na ang E10 hindi na sya ganun kaeffective unlike sa pure premium fuels.
sa ngayon wala pang nagiging side effect yun E10 sakin. mostly may nagsasabi na nasisisra ang engine pag madalas na ang paggamit ng E10 with carb rides. may mga nabasa narin ako na may nagppaint ng inside plating ng gas tank to nickel plating para E10 tolerant na yun gas tank. with regards naman sa mga fuel lines at other parts para maging resistive sa E10, unfortunately wala pang abundant part dito sa pinas. kung meron man eh mahal. According din sa clean air act itataas rin nila E10 to E20 by 2013 para mas maging lessen ng co2 emmissions. i dont know kung kakayanin pa ng mga carbs yun.
Kudos to ronn for keeping this thread alive and kicking....
Dear chinesecarebear:
Gas din ba yung ride mo? Well that's news to me, kala ko c ronn lang ang gas-guzzler sa atin.
Thermodynamically ethanol has about 70% the energy of an equivalent volume of gasoline, so dapat mga 3% yung maximum loss of power if you use it as E10 (10% ethanol by volume).
However ethanol also has higher octane rating than straight gas, and burns cleaner with a non-luminous (almost invisible) flame. Light alcohols like methanol and ethanol do not produce soot on burning.
If the engine is run with more agressive ignition advance curves and higher compression ratios, more energy can be extracted from an E10 mix than straight gas.
Achieving the former is easy, the latter more involved and expensive - you can do this mainly by shaving the cylinder head, cylinder block or with high-compression pistons.
The main problem you would experience with ethanol-gas mixtures like E10 is separation of the alcohol over time.
Ethanol is hygroscopic, that is, 'water loving' and will absorb water when exposed to the atmosphere.
The longer the period of exposure the more water will be absorbed.
The water-contaminated alcohol will separate from the E10 mix and settle to the bottom of your gas tank.
Here it will dissolve much of the deposited dirt and gums and carry it into the fuel system.
That gunk will clog your fuel filter and lines, and eventually your carburetor.
What's more if allowed to dry inside the carb, it will form a white, flaky salty, crust that's almost impossible to remove.
If it gets into the engine, it will cause misfires and bad running as it has very little fuel value.
What I can share with you is how to prevent that from happening.
If you are interested PM me as the solution is rather sensitive.
Best Regards,
Dusky Lim
*chinesecarebear
Medyo mahaba habang usapan nga talaga yung about sa sticker. well for the mean time lets be excited for our up coming eb! hehehe!
ey jofel, still alive! la pa din masyadong improvements on my truck, la pa budget! hehehe! looking forward to the next EB. btw, Saw one of the truckers in the LSM alumni homecoming. I think it was sir dennis? hope am right, not sure though...had too much beer to drink that night...hehehe! But am pretty sure there's a lourdesian here on the thread. anyways, see you guys!
*Sir Dusky, pa order din ako nang 3 bottles nang additive. Am doing comparative tests. thanks!
inquiry on glow plugs
I know there has been a post about glow plugs before, but would just like to ask. what brand of glow plugs have you guys been using? I've been looking for the kitahara glow plugs for quote some time. Out of stock din daw sa banaue. Another thing... Is it really true that its better to use a lower voltage glow plug? Ive been changing glow plugs every 4-5 months or so. Ive had the relay checked with an electrician, la naman daw problema.
no issues as of yet except for hesitation/misfier during 85kph up. i only use either petron xcs / blaze, caltex gold, shell v-power. not sure if it's the gasoline, fuel pump (pa rin? naka-Carter electric rotary vane na ako e), or high tension wires.nag-order na ako ng MSD Super Conductor Wire set (8mm) para sure na.
Dear bors:
Yes sir!!! I got your order. Will bring it sa EB.
Dear Cinematographer:
Sir, will bring your order sa EB.
Wala na bang mga kitahara plugs duon sa Banawe St.? Hmmm that's news to me!
Pls try Fordland or Fordmaster, across from Ha Yuan restaurant on Banawe. Usually meron sila.
I will ask my supplier in Binondo 1st kung meron pa sila, I know the last time I asked, they were out of stock of the model for the B2200/B2500 - PZ-30 series.
As to the voltage, if you are experiencing short glow plug life (as is obvious from your 4 to 5 month average) you should install HIGHER voltage plugs rather than lower voltage models.
The lower voltage plugs heat up very quickly (for faster pre-heats and starts) but tend to burn out very fast also. The higher voltage plugs take a longer time to heat up but last a LOT LONGER.
I myself use 12 volt glow plugs (a well-stocked store should have up to 12.5 volt models).
The originals were 11 volt models and lived for about 7 - 8 years (Nippondenso) but cost about Php 1250 EACH!!!
The ORIGINAL Kitahara's are about Php 350 each so malaki ang matitipid mo talaga.
Do NOT buy glow plugs without being able to TEST them. You may like me, and get a set of lemons.
If you want a set of filters, (oil, air and fuel) its best to have samples as sometimes the filters are different.
I will call to check out the current cost of filters for B2500s - and will post them on this thread. I am not familiar with the filters for B2200s or R2/RF engines - please bring samples or provide me with the part numbers.
Best Regards,
Dusky Lim
i'll prepare the sheet then aka registration form?tama ka dyan at least may referral or tatakbuhan tayo kung may kailangan sa ibang aspects!
yun first EB nga natin may nakita si misis dumaan lowered light blue metallic na B-Series tulad nun sakin e. sayang pinara sana natin yun! hehe.
malaki pinagbago sir csi28! para mamaintain mong malinis yan, punasan mo din sya daily bago mo start ang truck mo. kasabay nyan ang pag-check ng fluids ng beloved b-series mo. i noticed nga sa pic na kulang ng brake fluid yun reservoir (parang 2/3 full). OC kasi ako sa mga ganyan gusto ko lagi puno laman (except for fuel -- ang mahal ng gasolina!)
Dear ronn:
Does the misfire occurs only at 85 kph and above? Do you have a tachometer? Does it occur at a specific RPM in ALL gears or just in 4th or 5th?
Does it feel like you hit a brickwall or someone shut the engine off at that speed (85kph) - OR - does it gasp and backfire through the air filter?
The 1st condition is an excessively RICH mixture, the 2nd condition is LEAN backfire.
Usually with a slightly RICH mixture, the engine will pull strongly up to the onset and then will feel like it shutdown or hit a wall when it becomes TOO RICH.
With the lean mixture, the car will pull weakly up to the lean-out point and start to gasp as the mixture becomes un-ignitable via the sparkplugs.
Very unlikely its the fuel pump. The stock fuel pump will run out of steam well above 130-140 kph. A stock pump should be able to bring you to about 150 kph without problems.
It could be an ignition problem but without actually seeing it - hard to say.
Try this, to check if its a mixture problem, (I am 75% to 80% sure it is) turn the engine OFF on a lonely road when the misfire occurs and take off the spark plugs - the color will tell you whats going on in the carb department.
Black spark plugs means a rich mixture and white plugs with pepper spots means lean detonation.
Both are bad - the rich mixture washes oil from the piston rings and contaminates your oil, while the lean mixture burns the engine up from the inside.
I had a 1981 Galant Sigma with a 2.0 liter 4G63B with twin downdraft Weber 32/36 DGAVs.
It could do 70 kph in 1st gear, 110 kph in 2nd and 140 kph in 3rd - so I'm a little surprised at your problem.
Curious,
Dusky Lim
it only occurs in the 4th or 5th. suspecting that it's the high tension wires. my mechanic and electrician once serviced this type of problem at it was the splitfire sparkplug wire set that's defective. so i'm guessing that the plugs would be a little bit black. will check it this weekend.
before i replaced the fuel pump, it was a little bit hard to drive up a hill i.e. kennon or marcos hi-way because of stepping hard (most of the time) on the gas pedal. the old mitsuba diaphragm-type pump couldn't keep up with the demands of the weber carb. sometimes it backfired through the air filter during long trips * 100kph up.
could it also be the plugs? i'm now using hot plugs (BPR5) cuz the cold plugs are out of stock. i've been using cold plugs (BPR6) til last January/February when i had the truck tuned.