Mazda B-Series (B2200/B2500)

[chinesecarebear]

sir dusky.

yup, it's overhaul na nga. converting into diesel engine? anu mga papalitan dito? reviving the van makes more challenging..engine palan tinitingnan ko.
hehehe. sabi din nun laging tumitingin nun sasakyan namin ay need na ng machining. need iayos ang gap sa pistons at yun bore. mejo duduguin ata
ako.

I observed wala pa palang gas na nalabas. mostly oil, nakita ko narin yun exhaust eh wala pa naman blue.white.gray color. whats make me confused ay bata pa yun engine namin. cguro kun maoverhaul to eh 1st time nya. ndi naman gnamit to ng brutal. 85k palang yun nasa speedometer nya. cguro nasira nalan to since ndi sya madalas gamitin.

salamat po sa napakaimportanteng info.

regards,
chinese

[redvegetarian]

Hi mga sirs!

Sorry my bad, di pala Celsius, Farehnheit pala. Tinaasan ko na lang po yung idle speed nya kaya naman pala, kaya lang di po kaya medyo malakas sa Diesel. Chevron po yung brand ko. I tried Petron one time, mas malakas humatak pero mas mabilis din maubos. Is there any difference mga sir sa mga fuel brands? I though they came from the same refinery sa Bataan? I have another question sir, recently, naputulan ako ng tierod end buti na lang sa humps. I had the outer ,inner tie rod ends, ball joints, upper link replaced. I notice yung triple 5 brand na binigay sakin wala yung small nut-like protrusion na may butas para magrasahan siya. Yun ba yung sealed type or kelangan pa din pa grasahan? thanks po sa kay sir young rider at sir dusky. Dami ko natututunan dito. Sana matuloy yung EB.

[youngrider]

Ok naman daw yung 555, sealed type, di na kelangang grasahan, mas preferred to ng mekaniko ko kesa yung alternative na may grease nipple.

So far wala naman akong naging problem sa chevron, but I seldom use it medyo malayo. I am using FlyingV ngayon, mas maganda ang performance nya kesa sa shell or petron ewan ko kung bakit, hiyang hiyang lang siguro.

Wag mo lang masyandong taasan ang idle, masakit sa tenga, tama na yung tipong di naman nahihirapan ang makina pag naka-on ang aircon.

If you want a cheaper engine oil, yung Shell Rimula-D maganda rin ang performance sa B2200 tahimik at walang sabit ang takbo ng makina.

[duskylim]

Dear Chinesecarebear:

If I remember correctly, your vehicle is a B2200 di ba? Well the usual recommended replacement 2nd hand diesel for this pickup is the Mazda R2 series diesel engines.

Its generally available sa mga 2nd hand (ang tawag nila ay surplus-san) stores. There are so many now - Banawe, Calle Antipolo sa Tondo, Calle Batangas, Valenzuela, Novaliches ang daming bago and I haven't kept track.

There is also a model that is turbo-charged and intercooled available (pero mas mahal sya).

You must bring along a good, trustworthy mechanic. He should check the engine thoroughly before selecting it.

Have them try out many engines first and don't let yourself be rushed. Be very careful in choosing any 2nd hand motor.

You are going to live with this engine for a long time, treat the whole experience like choosing a wife - hope you get the point.

You must understand the rules of the 2nd hand junk - engine game - they are rough and nasty so be prepared to drive a hard bargain.

Walang mabait dyan - puro bastos at halang ang bituka ng mga P.T.I. na yan.

Never before has the expression "Buyer Beware" been more apt.

Run the engine and listen with a discerning ear - if you HEAR any knocking, rattle, grinding, meshing, or SEE any smoking, dripping, leaking, spraying - REJECT it and DON'T let them say -

"GANYAN TALAGA YAN" - thats utter and complete BULLSHIT - its your choice and not theirs - they are just trying to hustle you into buying immediately.

DON'T LET THEM MAKE THE DECISION FOR YOU. if you don't like what you see or hear REJECT the engine.

Also, you can MAKE them swap in and out PARTs. Like the Air cleaner, manifolds, oil-pans, fans, dipstick, transmission etc. Pwedeng mamili ng piyesa - you are not necessarily stuck with whats on the engine.

If they won't agree - REJECT. Talo ka - mura lang ang bili nila dyan - THEY BOUGHT the GODDAMN thing at JUNK PRICES - IN LOTS for WHOLESALE PRICES abroad. So don't let them tell you you can't swap out bad parts - for good ones - kasama yan sa usapan at laro.

The secret is to be strict but not offensive - you're still trying to do business di ba? Pakita mo na di ka magpapaloko, pero you can still be decent.

Of course if you meet a real asshole - marami dyan sir - puro cla nag aahente ng makina (they usually are street hustlers (istambay) and NOT even employees of the store) tell him he can put his opinion where the SUN DOESN'T SHINE.

Hope this helps... he he he GOOD LUCK.

Dear redvegetarian:

There are differences between the various brands of diesel. Petron has its own refinery in Limay, Bataan and Caltex and Shell share one in Bauan, Batangas. All the small players just import and DO NOT refine their own.

Some brands of suspension parts - particularly the ball-joints, tie-rod ends, center links, idler arm, pitman arm etc. have their own grease fittings or grease nipples, others do not - not even a screw for fitting one in.

Those models are sealed - but in my experience (kung hindi ka madalas lumusong sa baha) - they last almost as long.

Regards,

Dusky Lim

[chinesecarebear]

sir dusky..

parang mahirap pagsabayin yun strict at decent..1 sided ako lage..he he he.. paggalit ako eh walang ng deal deal..

yup B2200 nga po yun sasakyan namin na naconvert na sa van. bali GAS fed po yun engine namin. based sa mga nabasa ko dito sa forums, i think na mas maganda na nga magpalit ako ng engine. at kun mekaniko lan din ay mayroon naman akong maisasama. eto po yun image ng engine namin. magkano kaya ang range incase magstart nakong maghanap nito?



medyo nanlambot nga ako nung naquote na sya ng isang shop na nakita ko dito sa malapit lan sa zabarte..san novaliched yun tindahan ng engines?
para akong may sakit dahil sa sasakyan..he he he..eto cguro tlga feeling pagmay malasakit ka na sa ginagamit mong bagay..salamat!

regards,
chinese

[ghosthunter]

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[redvegetarian]

Salamat sa mga reply mga sir,

I have another question. Lately sir napansin ko sa umaga kapag start ko ng engine medyo pupugak pugak at may white smoke. Anu po bang ibig sabihin nun. Bagong overhaul naman yung engine. Kelangan bang ipa calibrate na yung injection pump? I noticed malaki na yung clearance ng steering gear box. Hindi na siya inalign yung nung triny ko paalign yung gulong after tie rod and ball joints replacement. Thanks in advance.

[duskylim]

Dear Chinesecarebear:

Sometimes when I'm buying 2nd hand I have an advantage kung kilala mo yung mga mekaniko sa loob ng surplus-san.

What I used to do, was to go in, (or kung medyo stricto sila) wait until break-time tapos, kausapin mo yung mga bumbuo ng makina para tulungan ka.

You can also use the break to get to know them - libre mo yung merienda and I'm sure you'll have their attention.

Most of the time sila kasi ang may kabisado talaga kung alin dun ang maganda, at pwede sila mag-palit ng piyesa. So, the secret is to grease the right palms, and for a little extra - voila'!!! - maganda ang makina mo!

A little good will goes a long way... he he he.

Dear redvegetarian:

That's serious stuff there man, have it checked asap.

First the smoking problem - there are several possibilities, like mis-timed injection pump - if it is severely retarded (pwede yung bomba o yung gumawa ng makina) the engine tends to rev slowly and blow out white smoke.

This can also happen if the belt or chain tensioner skipped a few teeth... the results are the same. This usually happens if the tensioner was either improperly installed or not set-up correctly (too loose!).

A good calibration shop can tell you right away if its timed correctly.

If the smoke has oil in it, then you're leaking oil (you can see and smell this) - and it can only be a bad overhaul. Arrraaaayyyy - - There will be blood!!! Vengeance is mine!!!

As to the excessive play in your steering box, well there is an adjusting screw on top, locked in place by a lock nut.

Loosen the nut, tighten the screw a little (clockwise) and the play should be gone - but there's a limit to how much you can take up, after that, palitan ng steering box ang usapan.

Lastly, whoever did the susupension work and aligned it is responsible for making the steering wheel (and the car) straight and true. Go back to them and demand satisfaction.

Magdala ka ng malaking mama o maliit na gorilla to show them you mean business.

If all else fails, tell them you'll leave your wife and your mother-in-law with them for a week - that should teach them a lesson.

Regards,

Dusky Lim

[youngrider]

The diesel engine requires the following in order to fire:

1. Fuel
2. Air
3. Compression/combustion temperature
4. Timing

The diesel burns by autoignition, not by spark plugs. With a high Air-to-Fuel compression ratio_ as the air is compressed in the combustion chamber to about 600 PSI it heats up to about 600C. At this point the diesel fuel is injected which quickly vaporizes and then self ignites.

In the morning however, the engine is cold and absorbs much of the heat during compression so that you have Glow Plugs to pre-heat the engine.

While the engine is heating up to its optimal operating temperature, the diesel combustion is not as efficient, some fuel particles do not heat enough to burn, these unburnt fuel particles cause the whitish smoke.

Think what will happen if:

1. One or more of your glow plugs is/are busted.
2. Your battery is too weak to cause effective cranking speed or compression pressure.
3. Your diesel is injected out of timing_ too early before the compressing air fully heats up or too late when the heated air is cooling down.

Do not only check your glow plugs but be sure that the electric current flows to them freely by checking their electrical connection.

Check your battery and glow plugs first before going for Injection service.
There are items I omitted for brevity and emphasis but it doesnt mean they are not important.

[youngrider]

Check this: http://www.difflock.com/diesel/troubleshooting.shtml