Mazda B-Series (B2200/B2500)

[youngrider]

Yung buga ng injectors di talaga yun atomised, vaporization occurs once the diesel fuel is injected in the cylinder around the terminal stage of the compression stroke where the compressed air is so hot already.

Halos parang buga lang ng syringe w/ G19 needle ang injection pattern, but to test it properly the injectors should be removed and examined individually for injection pattern and degree of injection pressure, yung calibration sa R2 ko is 140 Bars or 2030 PSI (sa tanda ko). Iba ang sistema sa mga CRDI engines.

Yung timing marks you will see it with removed timing belt cover. Yung (+) advance, or (-) retard signs dun located sa may Injection pump. Yung makina ko medyo naka-advance ng konti di ko ma-recall how many degrees, as is lang ito when I change the timing belt.

There is a minor catch in replacing the timing belt which a novice may miss_ be sure to hold the injection (shaft) timing in place until the timing belt is fully tightened or else the injection pump shaft will turn missing about 2 or more timing belt teeth off the mark.

BTW, grabe ba talaga yung puting usok, parang Fog na ba, kasi yung old school diesels eh medyo mausok talaga especially pag nakatutok yung sunlight sa tambutso.

Baka kasi kulang pa sa break-in yung mazda mo napa-general overhaul mo pala talaga yan. How many Km na yung tinakbo after the repair. Masama ba yung hatak at constantly palyado ang takbo.

[youngrider]

Yung injector noozzles pala mga 500 pesos each. Meron mas mura at mas mahal. Di pa ko nagpapalit.

Calibration fee, kung inspection at calibration lang ng injectors (not the pump) mga 500 to 750 pesos. I paid 600 pesos plus tip.

Removal and replacement of timing belt/correction of timing mga 500 to 750 pesos. I paid 600 pesos plus tip.

Pag ok pa ang noozzles, pero out of pressure me kinakalikot lang dun sa spring (w/in sa injectors) to correct it.

[youngrider]

I forgot to mention na merong injection timing adjuster dyan sa injection pump pero better leave it na lang sa Diesel injection service center, unless your mechanic knows what he is doing. But it is essential na talagang naka align mabuti yung timing belt.

[redvegetarian]

Yung buga ng injectors di talaga yun atomised, vaporization occurs once the diesel fuel is injected in the cylinder around the terminal stage of the compression stroke where the compressed air is so hot already.

Halos parang buga lang ng syringe w/ G19 needle ang injection pattern, but to test it properly the injectors should be removed and examined individually for injection pattern and degree of injection pressure, yung calibration sa R2 ko is 140 Bars or 2030 PSI (sa tanda ko). Iba ang sistema sa mga CRDI engines.

Yung timing marks you will see it with removed timing belt cover. Yung (+) advance, or (-) retard signs dun located sa may Injection pump. Yung makina ko medyo naka-advance ng konti di ko ma-recall how many degrees, as is lang ito when I change the timing belt.

There is a minor catch in replacing the timing belt which a novice may miss_ be sure to hold the injection (shaft) timing in place until the timing belt is fully tightened or else the injection pump shaft will turn missing about 2 or more timing belt teeth off the mark.

BTW, grabe ba talaga yung puting usok, parang Fog na ba, kasi yung old school diesels eh medyo mausok talaga especially pag nakatutok yung sunlight sa tambutso.

Baka kasi kulang pa sa break-in yung mazda mo napa-general overhaul mo pala talaga yan. How many Km na yung tinakbo after the repair. Masama ba yung hatak at constantly palyado ang takbo.

Hi sir youngrider!

Thanks sa reply. Grabe na talaga yung usok. Parang fumigator tapos pupugakpugak yung makina pero hindi siya namamatay- one click pa nga e. Iniisip ko kung pwede ko pa ilakad ito para madala doon sa nagoverhaul. I remembered, he told me to replace the nozzles after overhauling nakaligtaan ko lang. Yung whole injector ba yung 500 pesos or yung buong injector? Ok naman yung pagka break-in sa tingin ko kasi pino na ang takbo ng makina until lately nga. Halos wala na siyang power e kapg tinapakan yung silinyador walang galit yung makina. Salamat ulit sa advise mga sir!

[duskylim]

Dear Redvegetarian:

The key to diagnosing the problem is determining exactly what kind of material is producing your white smoke. Until you determine what it is, there is very little use in speculating.

1) if (like you say) it is steam, well the test is easy, place a cold, clean metal plate or pan in the path of the white smoke and the steam will condense into droplets, running rapidly down the pan to drip to the floor. Personally I find this steam theory VERY UNLIKELY.

2) if it is oil smoke, a) you can smell this, and if you open your oil filler cap and dipstick there should be more where that came from. b) it will condense in the cold exhaust system and drip from the tailpipe in the mornings (like a 2-stroke motorcycle or tricycle) especially if (as you say) grabe na sya. This for me is a STRONG CANDIDATE.

3) if it is fuel - then it must be UNATOMIZED - that is it was blown completely out of the engine UNBURNT. a) you can smell this too, it's one of the easiest to detect, and the smell is terrible and very irritating and painful to breathe, especially in a confined space like a garage. b) unlike oil vapor which has a very high vaporizing temperature, diesel vaporizes at lower temps so it usually doesn't condense as well as oil vapor will. This for me is also a STRONG CANDIDATE.

Once you have determined which of these it is, then you can proceed to find a cure. Its just like HOUSE, M.D. - you DIAGNOSE the condition BEFORE you TREAT it.

If it is number 2) Oil Smoke - the go back to the guy who overhauled it and demand satisfaction.

If it is number 3) Unburnt Diesel - Do NOT go back to the S.O.B. who swindled you on the last calibration (at least not without a lawyer).

Go to a good injection shop - one that knows what its doing and won't cheat you, (like Gener or Jake - go to the diesel injection thread someone even mentioned being very satisfied with the work of Solid (?)), they can determine immediately the problem if it is with your injection system.

There is a good reason why we train and CERTIFY calibration shops, this makes them more likely to do a competent job.

Please keep us informed of what happened.

Best Regards,

Dusky Lim

[djBADUY]

mga sir newbie po dito....may prob po kc me s pik-up,medyo desperate na.hehheback in 2005 po kc inoverhaul ung pick up,r2 engine.gnmit ko ung pickup nagiinit ng pumunta ko laguna.so pinatingnn ko sa mechanic,.,sbi ng mechanic pinalitan dw ung cylinder head ng pngRF pero ok lng dw un.un dw init dahil s radiator.so pinaoverhaul ko ung radiator..sbi ng gumgawa barado na at may tulo n sa dalwa,so nilagot nya n.then dahil may anak nko ngaun,hirap na wla aircon,so pinalagyan ko ulit aircon ung pickup.wla syang compressor after the overhaul(no idea why)nkabili ko ng 508 ata un,sbi sakin masmalaki dw kesa s orig un nakuha ko..1992 ung pikup..so far lamig nmn khit la ko tint,kahit tanghali.ung nga lng kpg ntatrafic ako ngiinit....lalo n during day time...pero once tumakbo na nababa nmn sya kagd.at nyt mejo mbagal paginit nyya...una sbi ng mechanic dahil dw sa hindi nkaclutch fan,so palit.(galing ng ngoverhaul,different mechanic)mejo bumagal paginit.next sbi nya lagyan daw ng auxilliary.masbumagal pginit.kala nmin faulty lng ung sending unit so pinaltan din,,,,pero mainit tlga nahina hatak talga...now sbi nya un dw png advance ng idle,nawawala--un n dw un main cause.so ang tanong ko,ok b tlga ung head ng rf ang nilagay,,,ska ung pangadvanvce ng idle kapg naka aircon does it help tlga?pano ngwowork un?ska mga mgkano kya un?
sensya na kyo sa haba ng story ko...hehhe pero sna maintindihan nyo situation ko...hirap tlga may alergy s trafic pik up ko,....any suggestion,very open po ko...thanx to everybody in advance.... luv ko tlga ung pick up and i hav plans for the future with it....hehehe

[duskylim]

Dear djBADUY:

You have a serious problem, as well-maintained diesels are famous for NOT OVERHEATING.

Before I continue, I would like to point out that we have already discussed overheating LONG AGO on this thread, along with several other topics.

Be a good studious boy and GO BACK and READ the older posts, before we give you an answer, KUNG HINDI, ULIT LANG KAMI ng ULIT.

If you have specific questions then we can discuss them.

Back when I overhauled engines, I used to bring the cylinder head and block to a contract cleaner, where they soaked the parts in a caustic cleaning solution to remove all the scale and rust.

The cleaning involved the removal of all parts attached to the cylinder head and block - bolts, nuts, screws, CORE PLUGS, etc. as these would be corroded by the cleaning solution.

The result was a pair of absolutely clean parts. But you have to have the parts checked first - no use cleaning a cracked block or cylinder head.

AER and I believe Keyser Machine shops have contacts that do this type of cleaning. They will also check the parts out first so you don't have to pay to clean busted parts.

I recommend this practice to all those who intend to overhaul their engines.

[dadz]

Got to say "good job and advice" sir duskylim keep it up and more HP to you............

[youngrider]

* Redvegetarian,

Review ko lang yung situation mo.

Problem: A cloud of white smoke

Engine just underwent a general overhaul but did not notice this problem right away nor in the first ??? months of driving. The vehicle has a mileage of ??? after overhaul.

The problem appeared suddenly with no preliminary symptoms though it was noted that few days prior, the engine seems to be abnormally palyado with excessive white smoke up to several minutes after start in the morning. Now the exhaust is like a fumigator associated with significant loss of engine power.

Other info:

- di naman madaling maubos ang coolant
- ano ang amoy ng exhaust ??? does it burn your eyes???
- 'clean metal plate test' ??? as laid down by 'sir Dusky'
- 'oil condensation test' ??? by 'sir Dusky'
- the mechanic suspects defective injector noozle.

A wild guess: Di kaya nahaluan ng tubig o gasolina ang diesel fuel.

Sir yung binayaran ko sa Calibration para sa injector inspection and calibration lang , di ba me apat na injectors yung makina. Yung Injection pump di yun, ginalaw at wag daw basta-basta ginagalaw yan.

Kung amoy diesel at matapang sa mata yung exhaust or for any other reason there is really a strong suspicion na me problema talaga yung injection system:

>>>>White Smoke<<<<<


Normally means that the fuel injected into the cylinder is not burning correctly. The smoke will burn your eyes.

• Engine/pump out-of-timing
• Fuel starvation to the pump causing the pump's timing not to operate correctly
• Bad spray pattern of injectors
• Air in the fuel lines
  
• Low engine compression
• Water/petrol in the fuel

Kelangan mo ng reliable Diesel Injection/Calibration service patulong ka kay 'sir dieseldude' or '4GTootsie' or sa mga ine-recommennd ni sir Dusky.

Otherwise__ you will have to submit your engine for Leak and Compression Testing.

Wag mong i-derecho pabukas ang makina without proper diagnostics.

Sana nga contaminated fuel lang yan o kaya kulang lang sa break-in.Yung Pajero ng friend ko parang ulap din ang usok after general overhaul pero nawala din ng ibinyahe nya ito ng malayo-layo.

[djBADUY]

sir dusky binasa ko lahat ng previous post..that why im coonsidering palitan n din ung radiator.....ok lng tlga n rf ung pinalit?
dati kc s dadi ko ung pikup..kya mejo d masyado nalagaan..pero mga after maoverhaul..ako n...and alaga na sya sa langis...so ung pang advance nga cguro n idle kelangn?sensya n kung kulit...salamat po...

[youngrider]

*djBADUY,

Strictly prohibited pong mag-post dito in SMS/TXT format.

Pasensya na po. We will try to analyze your problem, sana matulungan ka namin.

[youngrider]

*djBADUY,

As far as I know interchangeable yung head ng RF at R2, in fact yung part number nyan sa ibang supplier e pareho.

Kung tama ang intindi ko, 2005 pa nailagay yung RF head dyan sa R2 nyo but you only noticed overheating lately nung binuhay mo uli yung AC ng pick up.

Important notes and questions:

1. Yung ibang linya ng radiator nyo eh patay na, condemned because of leaks.

2. Yung cooling fan eh napalitan na rin, ano po ang ipinalit brand new ba, mechanical type ba or clutch type.

3. Naglagay din ng auxillary fan, brand new rin ba at pahigop ang air flow.

4. Yung water pump nyo napa-check nyo na ba, eto kasi ang isa sa mga identified na usual cause ng overheating ng RF at R2 engines leading to cylinder head problems.

5. Gumagamit ba kayo ng coolant, kasi baka puno na ng sediments yung water pasages ng cooling system nyo. Diba kayo natutuyuan ng tubig.

6. Yung 508 sanden pang double AC set up na yan gaya sa mga van pero kaya ng R2.

7. Ano po yung low at high side pressures ng AC system nyo.

8. Yung idle-up ba ng AC ay gumagana.

9. Me Thermostat (valve) pa ba yang makina nyo, di kaya yan stucked-up at ano ang temperature rating nyan.

10. Well-tuned ba yung engine nyo.

Kung ako, ang uunahin ko e ipalinis yung cooling system at palitan yung water pump. Yung radiator, ang huling tanong ko for Evercool e P6500 yata, (mabuti rin kung mapalitan na ito).

Kung hindi tama yang Head ng makina nyo, dapat matagal ng nagluko yan.

Yung diesel engines nag-ooverheat yan dahil sa overfueling (pero dapat makapal at maitim din yung usok), excessive loads, at inefficient cooling system. Hindi eto nag-oover heat because of lean burn gaya sa gasoline engines. Actually always lean burn ang diesel engine relative to lambda point ng air/fuel ratio. Pag may problema sa timing at valves ng diesel engine e malamang abnormal din ang usok nito.

Makikita din naman ng mekaniko kung hindi match yung water holes ng head at engine block bago ito isalpak. Good luck po.

[djBADUY]

clutch fan na po yung pinalit...orig na.tapos po yung auxillary ay sanden.sa may bumper nilagay.lakas naman po ng higop nya.sabi ng mechanic ko ok naman daw po yung pump.pero padouble check ko din po today.tapos yung sa thermostat,patingnan ko n din today.tingin ko hindi nagana yung idle up kasi nababa po yung rpm kapag naka-on yung ac.pano po tinitingnan ung pressure ng ac?saka since po pinaoverhaul ung radiator,lagi po distilled water na gamit ko.kaya galit si misis lagi nababawasan ang tubig ni baby.hehe
maraming salamat po sa patience ninyo.update ko po kayo sa results.may peace of mind na ko ngayon na interchangable yung dalawa.sensya na po sa typing..always in a hurry,babysitter din ako ngaun eh.
ingat po tayo lahat sa bagyo...

[djBADUY]

pahabol:
yun po tune ng engine ok naman po.wala usok at lakas ng hatak.kahit naka -AC.basta moving siya.in fact,saglit lang po ko sa smog noong nagperenew ako.isang rev lang.hindi pa naman po siya natutuyuan nang tubig since overhaul...kapag po tumaas temp,patay na ac.
salamat po ulit.
ingat po tayo lahat.
GODBLESS.

[youngrider]

Yung fan shroud nyo pala buo pa rin ba, how many blades yung fan, orig rin ba, bago ba yung fan clutch o surplus lang.

Mas mabuti kung gagamit kayo ng glycol coolant o antirust additive man lang para maiwasan ang corrosion at scaling ng cooling system.

Yung RF at R2 parehong 86 mm ang bore diameter, 86 mm at 94 mm respectively yung bore length nila.

[duskylim]

Dear Redvegetarian:

What happened na to your smoker? Have you determined the cause of the smoke yet?

Contaminated fuel tends to stop the motor rather than cause it to smoke.

You should perform the plate test to make sure what the engine is spewing out.

Remember oil will condense, diesel fuel will probably not.

Dear djBaduy:

Long term overheating is not good for your engine (or your wallet).

Cooling systems are very straightforward.

1) There's the engine and its water passages - which should be clean.

Try looking for a shop with the Lav'ramon machine, they do a decent job of cleaning the engine.

2) Check you radiator hoses and water pump for leaks.

If there's any question about the hoses, replace them. The thing to look for in the water pump is the mechanical seal - if its damaged the pump will leak water.

3) The radiator should be clean and in order.

Your radiator should be free of blockage inside and out. Blocked off passages are unacceptable - replace the radiator if this happens.

A good radiator repair shop in QC is Keyser along West Ave.

4) Always use distilled water for the radiator.

Report to use what happened.

Good luck

[redvegetarian]

Hi mga sir!

It been a a few days since I logged in. Let me update new on what happened with my smoky engine. I had the injectors replaced and the injection pump calibrated. It turned out to be faulty injectors, its injecting too much diesel into the engine. Medyo masakit sa bulsa. Pero sa wakas ok na siya tumakbo ngayon. Wala na usok at pinong pino na ang takbo ng makina. Yung actuator na lang ang kulang at wheel alignment. Thanks sa lahat ng advise especially kay youngrider at sir dusky

[duskylim]

Dear dadz:

Welcome to our forum. Thanks for the kind comments. Please share your experience with us.

Regards,

dusky lim

Dear Redvegetarian:

Nice to hear from you again. At least we have some good news from you now.

So over-delivery ang naging problema.... hmmm, usually simple over-delivery results in BLACK smoke and not white, especially if your nozzles are leaky.

Try going to 2nd-hand dealers who strip engines - like Giant in Banawe - they may have a suitable vacuum-actuated, fast-idle device.

My advice to you is to get your wheel-alignment right 1st, because mauubos ang gulong mo ka-agad kung pinatagal mo - the fast idle device can wait.

Regards,

Dusky Lim

[azzkkr2600]

EB anyone?

[duskylim]

Dear Guys:

As I said before I'm game to meet, medyo lang dapat malapit sa QC as GRABE na ang TRAFFIC. Also, better if its scheduled on a weekend (preferably Sunday).

Regards,

Dusky Lim