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  1. Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    575
    #651
    Quote Originally Posted by rivco View Post
    bro parang may ganun di yung akin. parinig ako sa EB para malaman ko kung pareho tayo..
    To my fellow Tsikoteers:

    Please bring your rides, to the EB sa Sunday, that way we can take a look and make better assessment of the situation.

    It is very difficult to guess especially with engine sounds.

    Sincerely,

    Dusky Lim

  2. Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    575
    #652
    Quote Originally Posted by nsejoshua View Post
    Mga Bossing patulong po!

    My R2 engine had a general overhaul a month ago, medyo dugo-dugo pa ako sa laki ng gastos ko lalo na sa machine shop!... Long story, to make it short nagancho ako!... phew...

    At first when I test drive the car it was great, maganda ung tunog parang gasolina at saka maganda ung hatak nya!... When I'm driving it for break in I'm only at 50 or 60 max... On it's third week since dirving it medyo umiba yung tunog, parang may tak tak sound at mas grabeh yung tunog nya especially on morning start-ups!... I had it re-tightened and change oil, ganun pa rin... checked with an injection specialist i-adjust nya kasi medyo retard daw pero ganun pa rin. I also notice na mayback pressure sa dipstick nya pero mapupuna lang when I rev up the engine...

    Ano kaya problema sa engine ko?... with regards to Hatak wala naman problema malakas pa rin siya so we can't say may loose compression, hindi naman cya masyado mausok... Kind'a tricky...

    Need your wise opinions boss!

    Joshua-CEBU
    Dear Joshua:

    In my personal opinion there are no 'GOOD' tapping or knocking engine noises, they are all bad indications whatever the source.

    What's more, the engine noise is more serious than a pressure build-up in the crankcase on revving - some small amount of blow-by leakage is to be expected, though not a lot - after all the piston rings are NOT perfect seals.

    What should worry or concern you is if the blow-by back-pressure is sufficient to carry oil and vapor with it out of the crankcase.

    Note: 'Masyado mausok' is NOT GOOD ENOUGH, being newly overhauled your engine should NOT SMOKE - period.

    Many machine shops cannot get the correct clearances upon cylinder re-boring, I learned that the hard way, so when I do overhaul, I just replace the sleeves to bring the bore back to STANDARD.

    Not only does that make the clearances ASSURED correct, but re-sleeving (a pressing in operation) is a lot cheaper than a rebore.

    The lesson here is - don't assume the machine shop is more competent than it really is.

    Generally a Tapping noise tells you that something is LOOSE (maluwag) inside the engine, and that it is hitting something else - hard enough for you to hear.

    Clearly that's NOT GOOD.

    Most likely is that you have a loose valve adjustment or rocker, but in any case, you should bring it back to the machine shop and demand satisfaction.

    Best of Luck,

    Dusky Lim

  3. Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    575
    #653
    Quote Originally Posted by gerivic View Post
    Hi! Sir Duskylim, Orig.color pa po sya at 4wd. Pero ala sya rear defogger sir nun nabili ko. just bought it last july09 from a military general at fort boni.makati. just made one major top overhaul at minor detailing up to now.
    Dear gerivic:

    I see, you know my pick-up came with the switch for the rear-window defogger but no heating strip.

    Akala ko hindi nila nilagay sa mga 2-wheel drive, only on the 4-wheel drives, pero wala din yung sa iyo. Hmmm.... barat talaga ng FMC.

    Regards,

    Dusky Lim

  4. #654
    Quote Originally Posted by duskylim View Post
    Dear gerivic:

    I see, you know my pick-up came with the switch for the rear-window defogger but no heating strip.

    Akala ko hindi nila nilagay sa mga 2-wheel drive, only on the 4-wheel drives, pero wala din yung sa iyo. Hmmm.... barat talaga ng FMC.

    Regards,

    Dusky Lim
    * dusky:
    well it has no use here in manila. only in places where we have mildew/fog in the morning. hehe.



    good news guys! we have one more b-series minitrucker attending the EB this sunday. thanks to niky!

    friends from another site (pwede ba i-post?) will also be attending: abysstone and 2 of his friends. yey dami!

  5. Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    575
    #655
    Dear Guys:

    Well that's good news the more the merrier!

    For those who are looking for errant underhood noises try an old trick - make yourself a mechanic's stethoscope.

    Go to any well-stocked hardware and get the clear plastic pipe carpenter's use for leveling - its about 3/8 inch thick.

    Buy 1 to 1.5 meters of pipe and wash it to remove any dirt.

    Start your engine and put one end of the pipe in your ear and carefully rund the other end towards the source of noise.

    This should help you to precisely locate where the noise is coming from and will make it much easier to diagnose the cause.

    Best Regards,

    Dusky Lim

  6. Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Posts
    37
    #656
    Good morning...tanong ko lang sana where pcv valve ng R2 engine? bigla na naman kasing nag smoke yung sa dipstick ng engine. and ano pa po ba pweding check palagi kasing high temp sasakyan ko ngayon... wow meron pa palang eb ngayon dito... mabuti nalang dumami na mga naka b series dito

  7. Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    5
    #657
    * Duskylim and to all.

    Can you explain how the glow plug circuit works in our mazda b2500? Like when you put it in the ON or ignition mode, how many seconds will the timer
    work?
    Also, does the timer have temperature sensor to detect if it needs to fire up the glow plugs or not? etc etc.
    Lastly, where can I find the glow plug timer? was it in the right side kick panel?

    thanks

  8. Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    575
    #658
    Dear ichiban:

    Welcome to our thread.

    This is my knowledge of the B2500 glow system:

    The 4 glow plugs (type PZ-30 - if Kitahara) all bolt into the aluminum cylinder head which is grounded to the chassis via a ground wire at the back of the cylinder head, which connects to the vehicles' firewall.

    They are supplied with 12 volt + via a long copper rail connecting to their positive terminals.

    When continuity testing with a VOM, it is NOT unusual for working or brand-new glow plugs to show they are short-circuited.

    In fact, only testing with a 12-volt charger will reveal if the glow plugs are working.

    Clamp the chargers' negative lead to glow plug body and the touch the positive to the plug's positive terminal - the plug tip should heat up immediately.

    NOTE: remove the chargers' positive lead immediately so as not to BURN OUT the plug!!!

    This test is the ONLY way to assure the plug works.

    The copper rail is supplied with power via a heavy-duty relay, mounted just behind the battery, and in front of the fuel filter, its about half the size of a pack of mini cigarettes.

    The relay takes power from the main fuse box - a long black plastic box also behind the battery. All the fuses inside are easily identified by the writing stenciled on top.

    The fuse closest to the engine - a 60 ampere fuse - is the one for the glow plugs.

    This fuse gets its supply from the vehicle's main fuse itself - an 80 ampere fuse.

    The main fuse is connected directly to the battery's + terminal.

    The relay is switched from a line going into the dashboard and ignition.

    Placing the ignition key in the 'ON' position starts the glow timer which runs for 4-5 seconds, then switches OFF, after which the key can be turned to the start position to start the engine.

    There is no temperature sensor in the glow system for the B2500 or WL-31 engine.

    I have not had to change my glow timer yet so I don't know where it is.

    If I were you I would follow the lead from the glow relay towards the vehicle's interior - that would show you where it ends up.

    When my glow relay broke I replaced it with one from a Hyundai Starex, and it works fine.

    The auto supply told me that if I needed one, I could use the glow timer of the Starex also.

    Hope this helps.

    Best Regards,

    Dusky Lim

    PS - rolandml - sir wala akong R2 kaya di ko alam kung nasaan yung pvc valve.

    PPS - ichiban - you can also check out our previous posts on this thread regarding glow plugs and repairs, it should be informative.

  9. Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    380
    #659
    Quote Originally Posted by Rolandml View Post
    Good morning...tanong ko lang sana where pcv valve ng R2 engine? bigla na naman kasing nag smoke yung sa dipstick ng engine. and ano pa po ba pweding check palagi kasing high temp sasakyan ko ngayon... wow meron pa palang eb ngayon dito... mabuti nalang dumami na mga naka b series dito
    Wala pong PCV Valve ang Diesel engines and the R2 engine is neither fitted with a CDR (Crankcase Depression Regulator) valve.

    Check if your engine oil is not excessive or if you have placed your dipstick well.

    Keep your radiator clean inside and outside. Yung radiator fan mechanical type ba o clutch type, baka kasi kulang na sa tension.

  10. #660
    Quote Originally Posted by Rolandml View Post
    Good morning...tanong ko lang sana where pcv valve ng R2 engine? bigla na naman kasing nag smoke yung sa dipstick ng engine. and ano pa po ba pweding check palagi kasing high temp sasakyan ko ngayon... wow meron pa palang eb ngayon dito... mabuti nalang dumami na mga naka B-series dito
    welcome to the thread! welcome to the club!

    yep! youngrider is correct sir. diesels have no pcv valves. replace radiator fluid (distilled water & your favorite coolant) every 6 months -1 year.

    both of you are invited -- pati ikaw pala sir ichiban -- to the 2nd B-Series EB this Sunday, March 28, 8am. McDonald's Macapagal. requirement/s? you and your B-Series truck!

Tags for this Thread

Mazda B-Series (B2200/B2500)