2011 Hyundai Accent issues, problems in general

[meikey]

Guys i need your help..

Where is the alarm module of the accent?

I cant find it..the alarm is going bezerk and i need to reprogram it...

If it's locally installed (winterpine perhaps), it is strapped in the lower steering column mounts. Yes, it's strapped with a used wire (Classic Pinoy style of installation, tali ang gamit). I installed my new alarm myself (Autopage yong brand) in replacement to our very shitty stock alarm.

You need to remove the driver side crash pads... Yong sequence ng removal is unahin mo yong cover sa pinaka gilid mismo ng dashboard, afterwards, remove mo din yong Fuse Box cover. The next thing you need to remove is the dummy/blank switches. You can pry it off, or best dukutin mo sa ilalim (sa my fusebox side), then pop it out by pushing it outward.

Then you need to remove 2 screws, and 2 bolts (Fuse Box area, you will see this when you remove the fuse box). After this, makikita mo na yong Control Module ng alarm natin.

I have a hell tracing the entire wiring. Wala kasing diagram sa stock alarm natin, kaya you need patience talaga on tracing and drawing the schematic diagram ng alarm electricals. You don't want your dashboard to caught fire... If unsure of all the electrical stuffs, it is best bring it to a professional...

I don't know if it's allowed here, but Maspro is a very good place to go...

[bougartt]

Bro, thanks soooo much.!!

This alarm suuuucks big time. And the crappy manual did NOT HELP at all..

My horn has conked out since it has been alarming formthe past 24hours? I have given up and my neighbors are already complaining.. If hyundai wont own upmtomthis crappy alarm hell will be raised for sure..

If it's locally installed (winterpine perhaps), it is strapped in the lower steering column mounts. Yes, it's strapped with a used wire (Classic Pinoy style of installation, tali ang gamit). I installed my new alarm myself (Autopage yong brand) in replacement to our very shitty stock alarm.

You need to remove the driver side crash pads... Yong sequence ng removal is unahin mo yong cover sa pinaka gilid mismo ng dashboard, afterwards, remove mo din yong Fuse Box cover. The next thing you need to remove is the dummy/blank switches. You can pry it off, or best dukutin mo sa ilalim (sa my fusebox side), then pop it out by pushing it outward.

Then you need to remove 2 screws, and 2 bolts (Fuse Box area, you will see this when you remove the fuse box). After this, makikita mo na yong Control Module ng alarm natin.

I have a hell tracing the entire wiring. Wala kasing diagram sa stock alarm natin, kaya you need patience talaga on tracing and drawing the schematic diagram ng alarm electricals. You don't want your dashboard to caught fire... If unsure of all the electrical stuffs, it is best bring it to a professional...

I don't know if it's allowed here, but Maspro is a very good place to go...

[meikey]

Hehehehe, chill out lang muna sir... Hehehehe, nangyari din sa akin yan, wherein all neighbors had to wake up to see what's going on with the car. Bigla na lamang nag-alarm sa kalagitnaan ng tulog namin... Hehehehehehe...

Honestly the alarm is a crappy one. No'ng nagloko yong akin, hindi ko na ini-arm yong alarm system.

I heard we only had 6 mos warranty para sa alarm and I hope someone could confirm it here...

Among my recommendation if you really need to replace it are Code & Autopage. Giordon is another thing to consider too. Cheap and it did last long on me...

[bratski]

Alam ko sa parts 2 years, same as tires. I was able to have my actuator replaced free of charge. At that time my car was already 11 months old

[glenn_duke]

Alam ko sa parts 2 years, same as tires. I was able to have my actuator replaced free of charge. At that time my car was already 11 months old

Ano ba cover ng tire warranty ng HARI?
Napunitan sa side wall yung rear tire ng elantra ko.
Dinala ko sa HARI di naman nila hinonour na warranty payun.
Pineresyuhan ako ng bagong gulong na 6k.

[AccentHyu2012]

Hi i've been reading ung thread, re: delayed accelaretion or engine knock, i don't know, mine is 1.4 A/T. May time na pagapak ko sa gas, parang hirap sya umandar.... Then pag ineffort ko na apakan ung gas.. Parang may slight thud na parang tinulak ung kotse (i guess ung sa pag change gear) i know this is not normal.. Pero can anyone tell kung anu kaya ung problem? I tried asking hyundai north edsa re: ecu upgrade, pero nd na daw nila ginagawa, as mandated by HARI.

One more thing, since i bought the car, May 2012, I've been using shell unleaded, kaya lng madami nagsabi na i should use shell vpower nitro+, so i did, kaya lng napansin ko parang hirap ung makina, then dun din nagstart ung parang hirap magaccelerate na parang tinulak ung car, so i revert to shell unleaded, umokay naman ung takbo kaya lng nangyayari pa din ung delayed acceleration. May effect ba tlga ung pag gamit ko ng nito+?

Lastly, anu ba tlga dapat ang tire pressure? Iba iba kasi cnasabi nila... Meron nagsabi 32 fron n back, meron nmn 30 front n back, tapos meron din 30 front 32 back...

Sorry sa madaming questions... I really don't have any idea sa cars.. Thanks

[janperson]

4th time na nasira yung alarm/lock system...

1st Time: The blue light does not turn off. It is always in a steady on. Kapag gabi nakakasilaw.
Remedy: Reset Alarm
2nd Time: Auto-lock not working but auto-unlock works (using manually or thru remote)
Remedy: Replace Actuators
3rd Time: Alarm triggers randomly when alarm is on. Door lock opens randomly when driving.
Remedy: Changed alarm module? (di ko alam talaga nangyari kasi driver namin kumuha nung car nung naayos at di niya ma explain sinabi ni SA)
4th Time: Auto-lock and unlock not working (using manually or thru remote)
Remedy: Most probably replace actuators again (dadalin ko pa lang sa Casa bukas)

bulok talaga haha

[bratski]

Ano ba cover ng tire warranty ng HARI?
Napunitan sa side wall yung rear tire ng elantra ko.
Dinala ko sa HARI di naman nila hinonour na warranty payun.
Pineresyuhan ako ng bagong gulong na 6k.

Ang warranty usually covers manufacturing defects, excluded ang wear and tear. Yung napunitan ng sidewall partly to blame ang driver, and mahirap patunayan na manufacturing defect yun.

[bratski]

4th time na nasira yung alarm/lock system...

1st Time: The blue light does not turn off. It is always in a steady on. Kapag gabi nakakasilaw.
Remedy: Reset Alarm
2nd Time: Auto-lock not working but auto-unlock works (using manually or thru remote)
Remedy: Replace Actuators
3rd Time: Alarm triggers randomly when alarm is on. Door lock opens randomly when driving.
Remedy: Changed alarm module? (di ko alam talaga nangyari kasi driver namin kumuha nung car nung naayos at di niya ma explain sinabi ni SA)
4th Time: Auto-lock and unlock not working (using manually or thru remote)
Remedy: Most probably replace actuators again (dadalin ko pa lang sa Casa bukas)

bulok talaga haha

Agree ako dyan, pinaka bulok na ata na alarm system ang nakakabit sa accent. Yung akin nagloko narin once, bumubukas mag isa at pag nailock mo bubukas uli. To think hindi pa gaanong ginagamit accent ko, 1 year and 3 months na sakin pero 3k plus lang mileage, what more kung gamit na gamit siya. Baka araw araw ako pabalik balik sa casa dahil dyan.sa alarm na yan.

[meikey]

Well, talagang bulok ang naikabit na alarm sa accent. It' from our friendly neighbor China. So what can you expect from it?

Akoa, nagloko yong module mismo ng central lock. Nagawan ko ng paraan by resoldering the contact points ng module. Kasi when i put the board under the lens, grabeh ang cold solder. Aside from that, pinalitan ko yong resistors, lowered it's value to 560ohms instead of 1Kilo ohms. Para mas mataas current yong ipinipasa niya on 2 other relays. I don't know if it's the same on my case, pero sa central lock issue, hindi main actuator ang problema, yong main logic board ng central lock ang problema. On my case kasi, when I manually lock through the driver's door, nag-titick yong relay however the entire doors ayaw maglock, kaya it isn't the main actuator.


Yong alarm ko naman, pinalitan na. Kusa na lang mag-aalarm ng mag-isa. Worst is, hindi mo alam kailan. Intermittent ang issue. Minsan, nangyari na sa akin na at 2am, bigla na lang nag-alarm that my neighbors had to wake and see what's happening. At ito pa ang nakakatawa, no'ng ininstall ko yong bagong alarm, pagkaremove ko sa old alarm, hehehehe tinalian lang ng wire yong main alarm control module sa may steering wheel column mounts... Classic pinoy style... TALI!

[bougartt]

After a week of not using the accent, we brought it to the casa today.

They "updated" the ecu to make the engine knock stop then they fixed the alarm issue i had with it.

Lets see how long this remedy would last. . .

[janperson]

Kung nagloloko alarm nyo, dalin nyo sa casa at kailangan niyong pakita you mean serious business. Yung 3rd na punta ko pala nireset lang yung alarm system, kahit na ang dami ko ng sinasabing problema. Nung 4th punta ko, medyo pinakita ko na dismay ko sa alarm system, kaya pinalitan na na nila yung buong alarm module kaya dinala sa araneta yung unit (pero same bulok brand pa rin ata).

[dfopiso]

try nyo sa Hyundai Central Edsa ... mala Merc daw service dun :thumbup:

[dfopiso]

Lastly, anu ba tlga dapat ang tire pressure? Iba iba kasi cnasabi nila... Meron nagsabi 32 fron n back, meron nmn 30 front n back, tapos meron din 30 front 32 back...

Sa Tucson, naka indicate tire pressure sa B pillar driver side; pls check sa Accent. Tapos tricky yung value kasi that is the cold tire pressure. Sabi sa owner's manual, cold tire pressure condition pag hindi nagamit auto ng 8 hours or umandar man sya for less than a certain kilometers. Kung hindi na cold tire pressure ang condition dahil gamit mo na papunta sa gas station para magpa hangin or ang ambient temperature is higher than 25C yata, kailan i-adjust yung value which is most likely mas mataas than the cold tire pressure. Pls refer to this website Tire Tech Information - Air Pressure: When and How to Set for some tips

[dfopiso]

check this also Tire Tech Information - Checking Tire Inflation Pressure

[ZENMasterTYL]

Lastly, anu ba tlga dapat ang tire pressure? Iba iba kasi cnasabi nila... Meron nagsabi 32 fron n back, meron nmn 30 front n back, tapos meron din 30 front 32 back...

nakalagay yung recommended try pressure pagbukas mo ng pinto. usually 30 psi ang reco

[dfopiso]

^ kung 30 psi, thats the cold tire pressure

As per doon sa link, typical to add 2 psi pag ginamit mo na auto mo papunta sa gas station para magpahangin ... kaya nabanggit na 32 psi siguro

So ang target pressure sa gauge eh 32 psi not 30

Tapos meron pang additional adjustment kung mabigat laman ng auto

[AccentHyu2012]

^ kung 30 psi, thats the cold tire pressure

As per doon sa link, typical to add 2 psi pag ginamit mo na auto mo papunta sa gas station para magpahangin ... kaya nabanggit na 32 psi siguro

So ang target pressure sa gauge eh 32 psi not 30

Tapos meron pang additional adjustment kung mabigat laman ng auto

Thank you dfopiso and ZENmasterTYL for the info

[miongmiong]

Hello fellow tsikoteers! We just got our Accent 1.4 AT early this August. So far there has been no engine knocking issue, though ODO reading is just past 500kms. Mababa lang ang fuel consumption. Mine did a poor 6.8kms/L post-habagat, city driving, heavy traffic. Dito sa Malabon, nagiging off-road driver ka pa sa dami ng lubak. Hindi ako nakatulog noong umuulan dahilan ng baha, pero salamat at hindi inabot!

Prior to that, it's been running a respectable 9kms/L city and 13-14kms/L highway (nlex Balintawak-Marquee Mall balikan).

I just want to share things I have researched as well. Laking pasalamat ko dito sa forum na ito, dahil you will truly be informed, even to nonmembers.

1. Car performance will (and should) improve at about 1000kms, which coincides with the ideal break-in distance. Thus I am hoping that our car's FC will improve, or at least stabilize at 10kms/L.
2. Engine knocking problem is a real Accent problem sa bansa natin. Sa ibang bansa hindi kasi relatively "malinis" fuel nila. Tthe manual book states to use unleaded gas with at least 93 RON (octane level). The problem is may ethanol content ang lahat ng gas natin (except for Petron Blaze? Mga bro pacheck naman kung tama ako, hehe), and ethanol has a natural high octane level. So at maximum 10% ethanol content, a 93RON mixed is actually a 91-92RON of gasoline which is less than prescribed 93RON. Kaya on our end, we have to use at least 95RON.

May kaba rin ako nang bumili kami ng Accent. Total risk ang tinake namin because of the problems lalo na sa biglang namamatay na makina, na so far wala naman. Porma, astig talaga. As for the FC, the car's lower price will (hopefully) compensate for that.

I'll update my FC as soon as our car reaches 1000kms.

[CooperS]

After our knocking issue was 'fixed' by resetting the ecu, another problem that surfaced with our AT/1.4 lemon is the dreaded 'lag' when you press the accelerator pedal rather quickly..in which for what seems like an eternity and there is a dump truck barreling towards you, nothing happens. Heavens forbid you are on an incline, the car is just making a high engine noise but nothing is happening! This is really frustrating just trying to leave our inclined gate entrance. We are afraid of this car. For the first time in our over twenty years of driving experience we conclude this is truly a dangerous vehicle which poses an extreme risk to us. We can't drive it for an indeterminate distance from our home for fear we will figure into an accident. Some irrational fear kicks in. And Hyundai insists there is nothing wrong with the car. They didn't even fix my auto alarm and door lock issue. So pissed off at this juncture. I'm at 7.5k and was wondering if you guys know how much the casa charge for my next scheduled pms/oil change at 10k? What is it that they replace or look at during this schedule?