Bumababa ang voltage kapag naka-on parking/head light

[gtamp]

When you're idling, you can probably just engage your headlights(low beam). No need to turn on your foglights... How's your voltage measurement here?

Also, the compressor cycles on/off,- how is the voltage measurement with the above condition when the compressor disengages?

16.1K:nerves:

switching on the headlights alone eh bumababa na from 13.8 to almost 12.5~13V

then switching on A/C eh almost baba na sya ng 12.1~12.4
then switch off A/C back to 12.5~13V

[gtamp]

Bro.,- when your engine is running,- it is the alternator that supplies the voltage... The battery is practically out of the circuit.

The battery is mainly there to crank the engine when you start it.....

16.1K:nerves:

thanks uli
yun nga din ang pagkakasabi sa akin, once na umandar na yung makina eh yung alternator na gumagana so sa palagay ko dapat hindi baba yung voltage ko kahit naka- idle kase constant speed naman then kahit iswitch on ko mga electrical features ng sasakyan except for A/C tama po ba

[t2erns]

teka nga pala ano bang car itong pinag uusapan natin? may mga cars na variable ang charging rate i.e. alternator is not always running on 100% duty cycle example kung minsan 30%, 40% etc. depending on the demands and other sensor inputs like battery temperature, etc

BTW the battery is always in the circuit not only during starting only. it acts like a big capacitor that filters the electricity para maabsorb ang fluctuating current ng alternator

[EE100shiro]

tumutulong rin yung battery sa mga electronic stuff

[CVT]

teka nga pala ano bang car itong pinag uusapan natin? may mga cars na variable ang charging rate i.e. alternator is not always running on 100% duty cycle example kung minsan 30%, 40% etc. depending on the demands and other sensor inputs like battery temperature, etc

BTW the battery is always in the circuit not only during starting only. it acts like a big capacitor that filters the electricity para maabsorb ang fluctuating current ng alternator

Yup,- the battery by itself is a regulator, but does not act as a source of power when the engine is running, unless the alternator cannot supply enough.

When the engine is running, and the alternator is okay, the battery is actually a 'load' and is being charged by the alternator, while the alternator supplies the power for the vehicle.

When I say "the battery is practically out of the circuit", I meant that "it does not supply power", but rather acts as a load as it is being charged by the alternator, while at the same time, helping to regulate it (you have a regulator with the alternator)...

16.1K:nerves:

[CVT]

tumutulong rin yung battery sa mga electronic stuff

Anong "electronic stuff", bro?

You can say that again...

16.1K:nerves:

[CVT]

switching on the headlights alone eh bumababa na from 13.8 to almost 12.5~13V

then switching on A/C eh almost baba na sya ng 12.1~12.4
then switch off A/C back to 12.5~13V

When you say "switching on the headlights",- is it high beam or low beam, bro?

I suggest you turn on only your low beam. Not too much load on your alternator, and not an irritant to other motorists...

With that I think that you have a fairly stable (electrical) setup....

16.1K:nerves:

[gtamp]

teka nga pala ano bang car itong pinag uusapan natin? may mga cars na variable ang charging rate i.e. alternator is not always running on 100% duty cycle example kung minsan 30%, 40% etc. depending on the demands and other sensor inputs like battery temperature, etc

BTW the battery is always in the circuit not only during starting only. it acts like a big capacitor that filters the electricity para maabsorb ang fluctuating current ng alternator

kia pregio M/T yung sasakyan ko.. thanks sa mga input/comments

sa pagkakasabi sa akin ng mga ibang napagtanungan ko eh kung constant yung rpm so dapat constant din yung output voltage ng alternator.. tama po ba o mali?

so sa pagkakaintindi ko na kung tama dapat kahit anu yung output voltage ng alternator eh kapag nag-switch on ng parking light or headlight dapat hindi baba ang voltage,,, tama po ba o mali?
TIA

[gtamp]

Yup,- the battery by itself is a regulator, but does not act as a source of power when the engine is running, unless the alternator cannot supply enough.

When the engine is running, and the alternator is okay, the battery is actually a 'load' and is being charged by the alternator, while the alternator supplies the power for the vehicle.

When I say "the battery is practically out of the circuit", I meant that "it does not supply power", but rather acts as a load as it is being charged by the alternator, while at the same time, helping to regulate it (you have a regulator with the alternator)...

16.1K:nerves:

thanks uli

so tama po bang sabihin while the engine is running na yung nasusukat ko na voltage sa terminals ng battery is practically the same sa output voltage ng alternator?

[jick.cejoco]

kia pregio M/T yung sasakyan ko.. thanks sa mga input/comments

sa pagkakasabi sa akin ng mga ibang napagtanungan ko eh kung constant yung rpm so dapat constant din yung output voltage ng alternator.. tama po ba o mali?

so sa pagkakaintindi ko na kung tama dapat kahit anu yung output voltage ng alternator eh kapag nag-switch on ng parking light or headlight dapat hindi baba ang voltage,,, tama po ba o mali?
TIA

if the vehicle has original size alternator without additional load, the common voltage with the engine running is between 13.5 to 15.1 volts. it is the job of the voltage regulator (both electromagnetic and electronic voltage regulator). if you changed your alternator, the pulley size must also be the same size. the charging voltage output factors, don't forget, are: rotational speed of the alternator's field coil, input voltage (for field coil excitation), size of the battery, size of the pulley, condition of the accessory belt, electrical loads when the electrical load, the condition of the wires connecting the alternator to the system and their resistance, temperature of the battery and the age and condition of the battery.

[gtamp]

When you say "switching on the headlights",- is it high beam or low beam, bro?

I suggest you turn on only your low beam. Not too much load on your alternator, and not an irritant to other motorists...

With that I think that you have a fairly stable (electrical) setup....

16.1K:nerves:

thanks uli

yung normal lang yung low beam. talaga ok lang..salamats naman kung ganun.

meron kase akong nabasa dito nalimutan ko lng kung saang thread.. dapat atleast nasa 12.6V para maganda yung charging sa battery.. tama ba?

so kung tama nga ito eh malamang hindi maganda ang magiging charging ng baterya kapag naka-on parking light at headlight at maiipit ako sa trapik kase nga bumababa until 12.1V~12.2V

syanga pala parang dim ng kaunti ang headlight ko pati ilaw sa dashboard panel kapag bumaba na sa 12.1~12.2V

let say na ok yung alternator ko at actually kapapalit lang, anu pa kaya ang iba pang pwedeng dahilan ng pagbaba ng voltage?

pede kayang culprit eh yung mga bulb?

TIA

[EE100shiro]

normal lang yung 12 volt pag naka on lahat . wag lang daw bababa ng 11 volt sabi ni akio toyoda

[jick.cejoco]

normal lang yung 12 volt pag naka on lahat . wag lang daw bababa ng 11 volt sabi ni akio toyoda

which cars have this voltage output? all of the car specs i have studied for over twenty years have at least 13.5 volts with the electrical loads on. this car must be an exception

[gtamp]

if the vehicle has original size alternator without additional load, the common voltage with the engine running is between 13.5 to 15.1 volts. it is the job of the voltage regulator (both electromagnetic and electronic voltage regulator). if you changed your alternator, the pulley size must also be the same size. the charging voltage output factors, don't forget, are: rotational speed of the alternator's field coil, input voltage (for field coil excitation), size of the battery, size of the pulley, condition of the accessory belt, electrical loads when the electrical load, the condition of the wires connecting the alternator to the system and their resistance, temperature of the battery and the age and condition of the battery.

thanks uli

tanung ko lang in actual situation tulad nung nangyayari sa sasakyan ko,, nagpalit na ng alternator at ginamit yung dating pulley. dating belt, walang binago sa electrical wirings all stock pa din

engine running at idle at lahat ng electrical features eh naka-off like A/C, stereo w/ subwoofer, foglight, aux.fan, power window motor, park light, headlight
at yung nasusukat ko na voltage/ reading sa aking digital multi-tester ay 13.8V

pero switch on ko lang yung parklight eh bumababa na sa almost 12.1~12.2

switch off uli parlight then yung voltage slowly going up to 13.8V

same situation kapag ginawa sa headlight

oks lang ba yun or merong problema sa alternator?

TIA

[jick.cejoco]

thanks uli

tanung ko lang in actual situation tulad nung nangyayari sa sasakyan ko,, nagpalit na ng alternator at ginamit yung dating pulley. dating belt, walang binago sa electrical wirings all stock pa din

engine running at idle at lahat ng electrical features eh naka-off like A/C, stereo w/ subwoofer, foglight, aux.fan, power window motor, park light, headlight
at yung nasusukat ko na voltage/ reading sa aking digital multi-tester ay 13.8V

pero switch on ko lang yung parklight eh bumababa na sa almost 12.1~12.2

switch off uli parlight then yung voltage slowly going up to 13.8V

same situation kapag ginawa sa headlight

oks lang ba yun or merong problema sa alternator?

TIA

there are common practices to determine the cause of these symptoms,
1. measure the voltage at the suspected electrical load terminals while under load
2. measure the voltage drop at both the positive and the negative potentials of the suspected electrical load
3. measure the amount of current to the suspected electrical load
4. feel the wire's temperature of the suspected load or better if you have infra red thermometer to measure the rise in temperature of the wiring of the suspected load

[gtamp]

which cars have this voltage output? all of the car specs i have studied for over twenty years have at least 13.5 volts with the electrical loads on. this car must be an exception

so ibig sabihin eh meron problema talga sa sasakyan ko kase kapag naka-on lahat ng electrical eh halos 12V na lang...

[jick.cejoco]

so ibig sabihin eh meron problema talga sa sasakyan ko kase kapag naka-on lahat ng electrical eh halos 12V na lang...

your car's electrical system is faulty. or your voltmeter is unreliable. try studying your electrical wiring diagram to determine where you start your quest to find out what is wrong

[gtamp]

there are common practices to determine the cause of these symptoms,
1. measure the voltage at the suspected electrical load terminals while under load
2. measure the voltage drop at both the positive and the negative potentials of the suspected electrical load
3. measure the amount of current to the suspected electrical load
4. feel the wire's temperature of the suspected load or better if you have infra red thermometer to measure the rise in temperature of the wiring of the suspected load

sakit naman sa ulo.. hirap pala talaga kapag 2nd hand yung sasakyan.. salamats po sa inputs

take note ko ito.. meron pa bang ibang way to check kase ipapacheck ko lang sa mga normal na autoshop..

meron bang relay sa circuit ng parklight at headlight?

or anu yung common/standard circuit connection/wiring ng parklight at headlight?

or anu anu yung mga common na pyesa ang makikita sa circuitry ng parklight at headlight?

sensya na po sa dami ng tanong..

TIA

[jick.cejoco]

sakit naman sa ulo.. hirap pala talaga kapag 2nd hand yung sasakyan.. salamats po sa inputs

take note ko ito.. meron pa bang ibang way to check kase ipapacheck ko lang sa mga normal na autoshop..

meron bang relay sa circuit ng parklight at headlight?

or anu yung common/standard circuit connection/wiring ng parklight at headlight?

or anu anu yung mga common na pyesa ang makikita sa circuitry ng parklight at headlight?

sensya na po sa dami ng tanong..

TIA

hehehehe that's the distinction between the "mechanic" or a parts replacer and the technician. having the electrical wiring diagram is a must if you are troubleshooting. it is comparable to being dropped in the middle of paris and told to find your way without a map. reading and interpreting the diagram, knowing the test points, knowing what to test at certain parts of the circuits and knowing the anatomy of your vehicle. this is the forensics part of being an auto technician

[gtamp]

your car's electrical system is faulty. or your voltmeter is unreliable. try studying your electrical wiring diagram to determine where you start your quest to find out what is wrong

yun pa ang problema ko, 3rd owner na ako..walang owners/service manual na pwede kong gawing reference...

kung meron lang na makukuhang electrical wiring diagram sana... mas madali sanang maiintindihan