Upgraded the ASX head unit to 10" Android head unit. 10" Multi-touch screen, Quad-core CPU, 2GB RAM, 32GB Storage, WIFI, Bluetooth, GPS Navi, Steering wheel control, Rear Camera ready, DVR ready, OBD2 ready.
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Upgraded the ASX head unit to 10" Android head unit. 10" Multi-touch screen, Quad-core CPU, 2GB RAM, 32GB Storage, WIFI, Bluetooth, GPS Navi, Steering wheel control, Rear Camera ready, DVR ready, OBD2 ready.
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Hi Sound guru's, I've been following this thread from quite sometime now and I have learned a lot for my sound set up.
Hingi sana ako ng tulong nyo. I am currently using Focal 165FX on my mid, avh595BT HU, DLS P40amp and Kicker Comp R 12" (planning to replace soon) with 10" maybe JL or focal sub. I am leaning through SQ which I am now satisfied with these set up after learning on a hard way. Because I started my set up using LL 4ch and mono amp, pioneer seps and the Kicker sub. Which were all disposed and now changed to focal 165fx and DLS amp only, except for the kicker sub which I like to sell also soon.
Now, my question is it is worth putting a PC 165F (coaxial) to the back seat (dont know what does it called) where the stocks speaker was installed. The stock speaker was still there but was not wired, meaning hindi siya pinagana ng installer ko. I just want to know kung mag improve pa and sound quality and listening pleasure especially to my passengers if I install a coaxial speaker in that location? or better stay on my current set up and spend my extra bucks in replacing my subs into a compatible SQ set up? BTW, my car is a vios sedan.
Thanks in advance for those who will give advise and critics.
You're still partway sa audio journey mo. Long way to go! But push lang!
The best choice is to maximize your gear. If I were in your shoes, I would:
1. Retain the Kicker Comp R subwoofer
2. Invest in a 4-channel amplifier with DSP
3. Bridge the Kicker on the P40 amp
4. Have your front-stage on the new amplifier
5. Tune it well
Pointers:
1. Subwoofers still sound great even without being hooked to a DSP. Just set the proper crossovers and play with the phase.
2. Try to listen to a well-tuned SQ car. You'll be amazed how you won't ever need the rear speakers once you get the tuning stuff correctly.
3. To answer your question, throwing coaxials at your back will 95% just reduce your sound quality as their sound waves clash with the frontstage.
4. In fact, I have yet to hear a good SQ system locally with the rear speakers on. Done correctly, it'll enhance "ambience" but it's extremely hard to get it correctly.
5. Before you think of throwing a "SQ" subwoofer in your car, do know that there's no such thing as "SQ" subwoofers; there's only good tuning.
6. Given a certain sound level, your 12" Kicker is technically superior than those 10" Focal and JL subs that you want to replace it with. Bigger displacement means less Xmax which translates to less distortion.
7. Don't give in to marketing![]()
^I'd skip the coaxials. Does your HU have time alignment? This is to enable your installer to manually tune your ride to have multiple optimized listening positions. This is what I miss in Alpine's Audyssey, where you can easily do that. If that feature is not available, an external processor will help.
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Hi guys.hoping you could help me decide which amp to get since my friend is in the u.s. til next week and i can order online. Im choosing between (3)4ch amps and both are priced almost the same except for the 3rd.($100 cheaper)
1. Hertz HCP4d (class d) 1,100watts
Channel mode 4 - 3 - 2 Output Power (RMS) * 14.4 VDC 4 Ch: 85 W x 4 (4 Ω) 4 Ch: 145 W x 4 (2 Ω) 3 Ch: 85 W x 2 (4 Ω) + 290 W x 1 (4 Ω) 3 Ch: 145 W x 2 (2 Ω) + 290 W x 1 (4 Ω) 2 Ch: 290 W x 2 (4 Ω) Filters Bypass Hi-Pass Lo-Pass Band-Pass Yes A/B: 50 ũ 3.2k Hz * 12 dB/Oct. A/B: 50 ũ 3.2k Hz * 12 dB/Oct. - Distortion - THD (100Hz * 4Ω) 0.02% S/N Ratio (A weighted * 1V) 100 dB Damping factor (100Hz * 4Ω) 200
2. RF Punch 600x4 (AB)-800+watts
4-channel car amplifier
75 watts RMS x 4 at 4 ohms (150 watts RMS x 4 at 2 ohms)
300 watts RMS x 2 bridged at 4 ohms (4-ohm stable in bridged mode)
3. Hertz HCP4-740watts
Channel mode 4 - 3 - 2 Output Power (RMS) * 14.4 VDC 4 Ch: 65 W x 4 (4 Ω) 4 Ch: 95 W x 4 (2 Ω) 3 Ch: 65 W x 2 (4 Ω) + 190 W x 1 (4 Ω) 3 Ch: 95 W x 2 (2 Ω) + 190 W x 1 (4 Ω) 2 Ch: 190 W x 2 (4 Ω) Filters Bypass Hi-Pass Lo-Pass Band-Pass Yes A/B: 80 Hz * 12 dB/Oct. A/B: 50 ũ 500 Hz * 12 dB/Oct. - Distortion - THD (100Hz * 4Ω) 0.01% S/N Ratio (A weighted * 1V) 103 dB Damping factor (100Hz * 4Ω) 120 Size W x D x H mm (in.) 315 x 190 x 50 (12.40 x 7.48 x 1.97)
*3rd amp is cheaper by $100
My next plan is to buy the stuff locally:
1. Seps( morel tempo, hertz esk, or rainbow slc)
2. DSP since i dont want to change current hu of 2017 civic
3. 10-12inch sealed sub
Will do the others pa isa isa(So wife wont be shocked)
What amp would you suggest? I usually listen to alternative/progressive rock, electronic and jazz.
Thanks
Cls
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Manufacturers are slowly integrating DSPs into their amps. I find that it's a good decision naman but be wary as sometimes the added cost of the DSP (DSP amp vs normal amp) is higher than the cost of a dedicated DSP. While a dedicated DSP will also need wires (as you'll factor that in), I'm still biased on separating them if possible.
Mosconi is a great brand and the DSP interface is pretty functional naman. I'd say go with it if the cost of it is better than buying a standalone DSP (there are ones for cheap locally like Firland Audio, Lightning Lab, etc.). As an idea, I'm not really fickle on expensive DSPs vs cheap ones so I'd prefer you go for cheap ones. The realm of professional/studio audio has seen the advent of cheap DSPs for years with no problem.
Hi jhnkvn,
Thank your for your detailed reply. Actually, i bought the 3rd option amp(Hertz hcp4 (730w)) since im really on a budget and i still need to make room for a dsp. Its also cheaper by $130. Now im looking for a decent dsp below 20k. Choices are audison bit ten(19k), mosconi 4-6(19k) and Hertz h8(?). Heard good reviews sa Helix dsp but too pricey for me.
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Guys need help sana.
Is anyone here using Focal Flax speakers (2way) either the 165F or 165FX? Baka pwedeng ma audition kahit 5mins (need to listen to 2 songs lang).
I'm choosing between the Focal 165f and the Helix p62c. (It will be powered by Helix G5 and DSP.2)
Sana may ma audition ako soon as I will have my installation most probably early next week. (by simplesounds)
Thanks
Thanks Sientobente, I am now starting to convince to take the coaxials out of the equation. Yes my headunit has time alignment features which was maximized by my installer. Since it already has the TA feature do you think I still need a dsp or it will be a very little improvement if I put one? Coz we all know that dsp's are not cheap...
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Ang mahal ng H8. I'd rather go with Helix nalang. Pwede na mag 3-way yung Helix DSP. Yung entry level processors like Bit Ten kasi are only for 2-way systems.
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For seps naman, Ive been using morel(dotech and tempo) before but sold my car already. Now i want to try another brand sana with the same characteristics of Morel. Any suggestions? Budget 10-12k. Already have Hertz amp. Thanks.
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*all
ano kaya pede ko gawin sa MDF box ko, months na pero di pa rin nawawala yung amoy ng chemical na nilagay pang dikit. pag nahayaan ng ilang oras sa init yung car , pag pasok ko ang sakit sa mata at amoy na amoy yung epoxy ba yun . inalis ko na lang yung sub.
When I auditioned yung Audible Physics, first thing that came to my mind was it's very Morel sounding. Warm signature and laid back. Although nasa 30k ata ito. Around that price range, the Flux FS260 also leans towards warm but heading to neutral. I am using the FS260 on another car but I wouldn't recommend it. Low quality materials and the local distributor sucks, mahirap kausap.
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